View Full Version : Centaur/Ramm post spacing

Dec. 22, 2010, 12:00 PM
I am getting quotes to have either Centaur or Ramm flex fence installed to make a two-acre paddock for my horse. I am planning on three 5" rails plus a hot coated wire, all in black and painting the posts black as well. I am unsure of what post spacing to go with. I like the traditional look of 8' post spacing, but 12' spacing would be cheaper. The terrain is a steady uphill grade, only a couple of trees that could fall on it. This is kind of the first of three phases of fencing as money allows. Next will be a 1/2 acre paddock in front of the house, then the two flat acres across the road with riding arena.

Also there is a stallion next door...new fence will be 12' inside the property line on that side, which is fenced with barbed wire. Planning on using the alleyway that this creates for cattle and goats. The cows/ goats would have a 1/4 acre pen at the bottom of the hill (easiest access to supply water and hay), 12' wide 400' long alleyway up the hill, and 5+ acres in the back that aren't really suitable for horses.

What post spacing to go with 8',10', or 12'? Any other comments, ideas, suggestions?

Dec. 22, 2010, 01:20 PM
I personally wouldn't hesitate to use 12'. It was either 12' spacing and heftier posts or 8' and wimpy posts for me. So I did 12' and could afford the better posts still. We used Horserail brand which was identical to Ramm and made by the same "parent company" or whatever- John Wall. It was quite a bit cheaper if that would make a difference to you.

Dec. 22, 2010, 01:36 PM
This site seems to have the installation manuals for Centaur and I would look there to see what that brand recommends. http://www.centaurhtp.com/installation.html

Dec. 22, 2010, 06:12 PM
We normally recommend closer post spacing for 3 rail fencing, especially if
hot, young horses or foals. If you are putting your Black Lightning between
the top and middle rail and between the middle and bottom rail, 12-foot would
be fine. The rolls of the rail are sold with brackets for 12 foot, 10 foot or 8 foot post spacing--the closer the post spacing, the more brackets needed,
and the higher the cost per roll.

Since Centaur gives price breaks for quantity, it might save a chunk to order
enough for your future projects (also save on shipping as even one roll must
come motor carrier due to weight)--provided you can swing it $$$-wise right

Just make sure your installer has some experience with this type of fencing or understands how important following the directions are when doing the corners and end/gate posts.

Dec. 26, 2010, 09:47 AM
don't go more than 10' spacings on the posts unless the fence is hotwired as well. If the spacing gets more than 10' there is too much FLEX in the flex fence if horses lean on it/rub butts etc. This is speaking from excperience having mostly 10' spacings on it and one fenceline section with > 10'.

Dec. 26, 2010, 12:58 PM
Like BasqueMom, we are also Centaur distributors/installers and I also think that the way you are setting up your fencing you should be fine with 12' spacing between posts. Do use decent diameter posts though as the 5" rail is heavy.

My own farm is mainly fenced with Centaur fencing and I have 3-rail 5" rails sitting on 16ft spacings for one of my fields. We fenced this field about 4 years ago and it's worked beautifully but we are relatively isolated from the worlds goings on so if horses or foals were to fall out it wouldn't matter. If you are close to a road/traffic then no this size of spacing is not advisable but 12ft spacings should be fine.

Dec. 29, 2010, 03:48 PM
Yes, good posts are a must. Round ones are stronger than square ones (something to do with the growth rings). Four inch diameter is the mininum
recommended for line posts and six to eight inches for corner and end/gate posts. Landscape timbers won't cut it--we've seen a few installations using them and it's not pretty.

Dec. 30, 2010, 01:32 AM
I'm about to do 10ft spacing for my arena... 4.5 inch x 6ft tall round posts, and 6in x 8ft tall posts for the corners.

One problem Ive run into is that the tension on these fences is STRONG. Make sure you brace VERY well... I would recommend "H" style bracing, as you will pull a post over quite easily, even if its big around enough, well buried, and in concrete! (opps)

Also, good call on the electric line - I have not been able to get mine electric yet, and my horses have no issue hanging all over my fence. So definitely do electric!

(P.S. I bought mine from BasqueMom - she's very easy to deal with!)

Jan. 1, 2011, 10:58 AM
We installed the Hotrail by Centaur 1 1/2 years ago. It replaced Safe-Fence. Our posts are 10' apart. One field is 4x4's and another is landscape timbers. Our installers did a wonderful job of installing and bracing properly. Both fields look wonderful!

I got samples of both the Ramm and Centaur. The quality of the Centaur won hands down.

Jan. 2, 2011, 02:58 PM

Yep, agree about the quality when you put samples of both brands together.

Another difference is the brackets. Ramm is a metal bracket with sharp 90-degree corners. Since both products recommend the rail be on the inside,
the brackets are a potential hazard, at least to my way of thinking. The
Centaur bracket is a polymer coated steel bracket with rounded corners and edges and the hole for the nail or screw is recessed. It is actually a two piece bracket with a back piece. Both pieces have moldings on the inside to keep the rail nice and upright. The CenFlex bracket is simiolar but without the back piece.

Jan. 5, 2011, 03:48 PM
We have Ramm. We did mostly 10' spacing (except by gates and corners) but have 4 rails.

Jan. 12, 2011, 04:59 PM
Its so great to see that people are thinking about important aspects like post spacing, size of posts, and the right type of fence for your particular farm and horses. Having owned horses for over 40 years - showing, boarding and foaling, I would only want to suggest fencing and posts that are the safest available. At Ramm, we suggest pressure treated round posts with a high retension level. Round posts work well with horses so that there are no edges to scrape you or the horse. They are extremly strong because they are 'turned out' from the core of the tree, then pressure treated. Ramms brackets are one piece -galvanized metal and powder coated with rounded corners, no sharp edges. Your post spacing depends on how large your paddock will be - if small and more than one horse, 8' would be preferable. If medium or if your looking for a clean neat look, go 10'. Larger areas can use 12' - 15'. You can go further but you loose stability between your rails. DebbieD at Ramm Fence

Jan. 12, 2011, 05:37 PM
I know this is kind of off topic, but does anyone know if the fencing on this huge TB farm on highway 27 in Ocala is Ramm or Centaur? It is beautiful...looks like wood...

Anyone know who the dealer for Centaur is in Gainesville/Ocala area?

Jan. 13, 2011, 02:56 AM
We have Centaur, three x wide rails with two narrow strands in between. I like this better than four wide strands b/c you can duck through it easier.

We're on 12' spacing and don't have any issues.

My tip; don't do corners like Centaur recommendations, their suggestions are not stout enough.

Jan. 13, 2011, 03:30 AM
My tip; don't do corners like Centaur recommendations, their suggestions are not stout enough.

So this begs the question, how DID you do them? Mine's in, and not changing (and done following Centaur's specs...mostly), but I'm curious.

Jan. 13, 2011, 11:40 AM
Very stout H's. There are fences around here with the single cross they spec that have pulled up. One is on our farm, but I have seen others installed by a local company that are leaning.

Our pasture has heavy duty H's and no issues yet. We're about to put more fence in and will do the same.

Jan. 13, 2011, 01:44 PM
With the fact you have a Stallion that your dealing with and the terrain not completely flat I would not do the 12' post space. I would spend the extra and stay with at least 8'-10'. Your making a big investment so do it right from the get go;)

Jan. 13, 2011, 03:09 PM
Depending on your soil, you may need to double H-brace and concrete. Also depending on where your located, you need to be sure that your below frost depths with concrete, this is for any flex fence. Its always best to follow mfg. instructions so that you dont have problems down the road. Heaving is caused from inaccurate size and length of posts, not enough concrete or improper shaping of the concrete in the ground around the posts. Also corner posts should lean out slightly before the fence is tightened and they will stand up stright once tightened. Concerning Stallions, its better to be safer than sorry. The 8-10' post sacing will give stronger stability between your rails. If you have mares near by, consider electric. If you want to talk to Amanda at Ramm, she works the Ocala area. Its best to get good info. from an expert in fencing so that you can eliminate any issues before you start to build. We have horses, and fence them. We just fenced over 15 acers this fall for our own 'group'.


Jan. 13, 2011, 06:22 PM
Very stout H's. There are fences around here with the single cross they spec that have pulled up. One is on our farm, but I have seen others installed by a local company that are leaning.

Our pasture has heavy duty H's and no issues yet. We're about to put more fence in and will do the same.

Unless I'm misunderstanding what you have done, I think that is one of the options presented in the Centaur manual. They give a lot of different ways to do the termination and corners depending on soil and climate, etc.

I do agree with your thought to go with the strongest termination and corner type. I'd rather have it be too strong than find out it is too weak! We have issues on ours only where our contractor did not follow directions (why, oh why, did it take me over a year to even notice???). We'll have to fix it, and I'll be thinking again how much easier it would have been to do it RIGHT the first time, not go back and fix it...won't have those guys back again!:mad:

Jan. 17, 2011, 06:26 PM
Yes, your so right. Its so much better to do it right the first time. I think that some installers may try to do 'short cuts' in order to give the customer a lower price and get the job. But the customer pays the price later. Often, you get what you pay for. Its good to really ask the installer how they do 'terminations', corners and ends. How much concrete they use, and how it is poured arouind the posts. Another big question if your getting posts from your installer, how long are they, how big around and proof of the life expectency of the posts. Get installers warranties in writing. And, walk your complete fence line before you hand over the final payment for your installation. If you see something that is not right, they can fix it before they leave or before you completed your payment. I have closely worked with Centaur and Ramm, Im a certified fence installer, and have been involved with fencing for over 20 years at Ramm. Hope this helps anyone that needs info on installs.

Jan. 17, 2011, 10:04 PM
We ask potential customers to tell their installers it must be done according
to the manual (the whole manual (old one, new one just out and don't have it yet) is on our website for downloading. We emphasize that doing the corners and gate/posts are critical to a good installation.

The horizontal-diagonal brace is the strongest (H-brace with a diagonal post).
Without the diagonal post, most stallers put a wire loop diagonally on the
H-brace. The installers for our fence in Colorado many moons ago before we
knew much about fencing used H-braces with the loop. All this money for
coated wire and now lots of loops of uncoated wire with a pair of paw-happy
thoroughbreds. One H-brace ended up with a plywood board on either side
as it was closest to the food. Again, proper hole depth and shape of the
hole is very important.

Jan. 18, 2011, 07:29 PM
Years ago horse people caught on to bare wire fence, brought here from Australia for cattle. The bracing was done with a wire loop and a 'twist or twitch' stick. We all know now that this type of brace can be detrimental to horses, and be avoided for equine use. Ramms installation manual reccomends concreted corners, ends,vanything out of a straight line, gate areas and rounded corners. H-bracing is strong, however, in some soils-sand, very wet areas, etc. a double-H brace may be needed. Once again depending on what breed or how aggressive horses are, extra bracing may be needed. Ramm's installation manuals are able to be down loaded from the site. Easy to look up just about any type of safer fence alternative with h-bracing, concreting, posting and dimensions for installations. Hope this helps with any install questions!