View Full Version : I bought the rotary mower, but

Jul. 28, 2010, 08:52 AM
I purchased the JD frontier MX5 rotary mower for my tractor.

I got it yesterday, and went out to mow, and could not believe the dust that it kicked back at my tractor and ultimately me.
We are talking grass fields, but it kicked so much out, I feel I need a dust mask to mow, which will not happen!

The MX5 has chains not the rubber protector, so the weeds.grass, etc go through that and kick back into the tractor.

I was told, and the delivery person set it up with the back higher than the front, and I am mowing with the chains just touching the ground.

I use to mow with a landpride which had a rubber protector and never remember this problem.

Is this the MX5 or what?

I am beyond bummed. I have another field to cut today, and not looking forward to it at all!
Any ideas?

Tom King
Jul. 28, 2010, 09:23 AM
Call the dealer and tell them it's not satisfactory. Mine has a rubber skirt and that's never been a problem. I'd get it changed.

Jul. 28, 2010, 09:31 AM
Can they add a rubber skirt?
I don't mow with my tractor (I don't have enough open area for that) but even when I mow on the regular riding lawn mower (lawn and paddock and side of the driveway) if it hasn't rained in the last 48 hours I'm coughing up dirt clods the rest of the day. :no:
And a dust mask sucks when it's hot outside...feels like you'll suffocate. I wouldn't want to wear one if it could be avoided either.

Jul. 28, 2010, 09:57 AM
When mowing, I have a dust mask, googles, kleenex in my ears and a shirt that buttons up all the way.

I always thought that mowing = very dusty environment.
The wind blows here all the time and sooner or later you are going the wrong way to keep the dust off.
Unless you are on a tractor with a cab.;)

Jul. 28, 2010, 11:06 AM
That doesn't sound like fun at all - I'd call the dealer and see what they have to say.

I will note, though, that unlike the past, what 4 years? It is DRY and the ground is dusty and the stuff you're mowing is dry and will shred and make dust. Haying this year was a very quick process but the machines kicked up a lot more ground dust than in the past.

Jul. 28, 2010, 04:24 PM
Ok, so here is the deal, er update.

I called, a bit fuming. Said, I'd do a stop payment, etc, Salesman said he'd be out.
Cannot get a rubber guard for this model(MX5)
May be able to get different blades so it doesn't swing up so much dust, etc
Is willing to take it back.
He came out, looked at where I mowed, etc and realized it was just grassy area and not a problem. Yes, it is hot and dry, but my property is usually on the wet side so when others are dry in august, I have lovely green pasture.

Before the salesman came out, I called my farrier who is a farmer(a real one). He said, lower my rpm's to not vaccuum and create more dust, since I am just mowing weeds and grassy stuff(no trees/brush).

I mentioned this to salesman and he thought that sounded good. He is willing to wait until tuesday when the farrier will be coming out and to take it back if we cannot get it to meet my needs(no dust).

What do you all think of that for an idea?
Going to get some diesel soon, and going to do some mowing this evening and see if lower rpm's make a difference.
I do not live in a dry, arid, dusty region, and in no way am I wearing a face mask or treating my tractor with that much disrepspect to get so dirty from dust. UGH. Its a tractor, but I treat my machines with care, and dust everywhere and inside everywhere is not my idea of fun, or else I'd move to texas:winkgrin:

Tom King
Jul. 28, 2010, 05:43 PM
The rubber skirt on bushogs is just made from the same sort of conveyor belt material as a lot of horse trailer mats. It would be simple to make one for that mower. Personally, especially since it came at a premium price, I'd take it back and not keep using it.

I always cut with the lowest rpms that are easy on the tractor anyway. Typically, I do average area mowing in 6th (out of 8)gear and rpms about 1,000. That's a 7' cutter on a 70 hp tractor, so different setups will have different best settings. There's no need to rev a mower.

Sharp blades are a must to be able to do that though. Otherwise low rpms just knock the grass over. I sharpen my blades almost every time I use the mower if I'm going to be clipping for anything over an hour. About 3 or 4 hours is my limit between sharpenings. Any longer than that and the edges get rounded over so much that it becomes a tiring job to grind them down enough.

Jul. 28, 2010, 07:51 PM
Interesting Tom. The salesman said I would not have to sharpen these blades and they are not really meant to be sharpened unless I am cutting thru saplings(which I am not for the most part).

Too tired tonight to go out and mow, will now have to wait till the weekend, and then see how it does at the lower rpm's. But, you could be right, will just blow over the weeds vs cutting them....will let you all know.

On my JD 3320, I am mowing in the lowest gear, and will be mowing at very low rpm. If it doesn't cut, it is going back, no questions, no problems.

Jul. 28, 2010, 08:13 PM
We have had bushhog type mowers for years on end and never heard of anyone sharpening them, it would be useless, the blades would of course round up in a hurry, not stay sharp.
I think they are made to work as they are, blunt.
We hit small, soft rocks here and there in barditches, they are made for that without doing much damage.

Almost Heaven
Jul. 28, 2010, 08:43 PM
Level the mower, raise the cutting height, and run lower rpms.

Tom King
Jul. 28, 2010, 09:19 PM
I know most people don't sharpen them, but they work a lot better for clipping grass if they are sharpened. I keep ours on the tractor for the whole summer most of the time unless I change it to drag a ring or something specific. I don't clip rocks with mine. If they aren't sharp they just beat stuff apart rather than cut it. They're hardened about the same as lawnmower blades. Any harder and either the bushog blades or lawnmower blades would flake chunks off if they hit something.

I do some trail enlarging now and then with ours, which includes cutting small pine trees and other grub saplings, but even for that I like sharp blades better.

I fabricated a door on the top at the back that I can open to get to the blades to easily sharpen them-takes about 3 to 4 minutes.

Any blade cuts better sharp and to say that something is designed to never need sharpening is just salesmanship.

edited to add: I checked and typically bushog blades are hardened to Rockwell C-45 and some lawnmower blades are 50 (John Deere actually softer at 40-45), so actually the rotary cutter blades are softer than lawnmower blades. I was just judging that metal was removed in sharpening at about the same rate.

Jul. 29, 2010, 12:14 AM
I agree Tom. My riding lawnmower blades are sharpened and it just makes sense to sharpen the rotary cutter too.

In fact, I think woods has an access port to sharpen blades, so it seems like the blades should be sharpened, otherwise you will not get a nice cut. I didn't say anything to the salesman when he made that comment because, well, it just didn't sound right.

I can't wait to see how it cuts on the lower rpm's this weekend. I did pay a premium to buy the JD brand cutter, and expect it to be better than my old landpride, which I never recall the dust and such spitting back into the tractor.
I trust my farrier's knowledge and experience too. I think he has a bush hog, and so he can check out my JD cutter and see how they compare.

Jul. 29, 2010, 01:43 PM
DH says the same as Tom regarding a rubber barrier, he goes to I guess TSC and buys rubber belting off the roll to replace ours. As far as the dust, I'm sorry, I'd be going thtough the pros and cons of taking it back as well.

Jul. 29, 2010, 04:14 PM
I've had an MX-10 for 3-4 years now and it's an awesome machine. I've never had any issue with excess dust (anything will kick up dust in sparse cover, dry conditions and if they hit the ground) on the MX010, an International 6', or an offbrand 5' - all of which are in use every season.

Frank B
Jul. 29, 2010, 05:55 PM
Check the instructions for recommended RPM. Overspeeding the blades not only increases wear, but can be downright dangerous!