View Full Version : What posts have you used with Horseguard or other electric tape?

Nov. 28, 2009, 11:44 AM
Has anyone tried the fiberglass posts (from Horseguard)? Or are we better off with T-posts with cap/sleeves)? Were originally thinking of those plastic step-in posts but I noticed Horseguard doesn't list them on their site for use with their tape. Not sure what to use for posts that would be somewhat sturdy yet not permanent (and not too hard to get into the ground).

The fence would go in the shape of a backwards "L" for now. Starting next to our 3 rail flex fence (large wood post with brace there), then up a somewhat steep hill/dirt road, next to trees, then at the top, it'll make a left (not sure if that will be 90 degree or we can try to make it a little less than that) to go alongside woods. Some of it is the neighbor's property (we have their permission) so we need to make this temporary - no concreting wood posts (unless we have to for a corner, I'm sure one would be okay) - would we need a wood post at the corner?

We don't expect the horses to go near the fence as it is a large grassy field and sides are wooded hill (going down), but I'm sure we could be unpleasantly surprised.

They'll only be up there in the daytime and just for the winter months (not bad weather as no shelter). Once finances are better, I would feel better continuing the electric all the way around the field, but for now, this is our plan.

Field will have the electric fence on the first side, then the next 2 sides have barbed wire but it is mostly covered up by trees/shrubs/weeds growing over/around it, then 4th side is open but is our property and if they decide to go downhill through thick trees/brush, they will end up back down by their regular pasture and we will add gate at either end of this area so they cannot escape. The access to the open field area will be from going up the steep-ish dirt hill, but if they do come back down the hill, they will be contained with our 3 rail flex-fence.

We are going to have to use a solar charger and I'm even wondering where we can put it, as I think most of this area, if not all, is in the shade :(

Nov. 28, 2009, 12:06 PM
We have Horse Guard tape on steel t posts with caps, steel t posts with covers and wood posts. All work well but we prefer the wood posts because they are the safest. Horse Guard does not need huge wood posts. We bought bundles of 3" (top measurement) treated posts and they have worked great. We do corners with a brace post diagonally from the top of the fence post to the ground. We put a short post in the ground to set the brace against. This has worked well for stallions, mares and foals and the young horses. We've also not had any fence injuries. Most of our fences are three strand. The stallion paddocks are four strand.

If you must leave barb wire anywhere where horses can get near it, put a strand of Horse Guard at the top. Once horses realize that the tape "bites" they will respect it and even a single strand will keep the horses off of a dangerous fence.

Solar chargers are not very reliable, IMO. We have fencers that are plugged into the electricity and fencers that hook to a car battery. Both work really well and pack a big punch. Of course the battery ones require you to charge the battery often. A hassle but worth it for a dependable fence.

Nov. 28, 2009, 12:14 PM
I have several of the Horseguard "temporary" kits that come with two strands of tape, fiberglass posts, and the various accessories to put it together. The fiberglass posts work pretty well for line posts, as long as you're not putting in an especially tall fence. They sometimes end up leaning after a serious rainy windstorm - meaning the ground is saturated and the wind was blowing at 30+ mph - but they are easy to reset.

The key is to have strong corner posts so that the fiberglass posts are only keeping the tape off the ground. You can use them around curves temporarily in a pinch, if you don't tighten the fence all the way. I use tall heavy duty T-posts for the corners.

Doing it all with T-posts and sleeves would be better for strength and safety - but my cost for that, last time I looked, is around $16 a post. In this case, I have two retirees who don't challenge the fence, so I opted to spend my money on larger perimeter. This fence (2 strands + fiberglass posts) will not hold the pony who DOES challenge the fence unless there's plenty of grass inside.

I move this fence around with some frequency, and it works well for that.

Nov. 28, 2009, 12:18 PM
Thanks. We would definitely use wood posts (that is what we have for our Centaur flex fence) if this wasn't going partially on someone's else's property. As it is, we need to be able to remove it easily in case they sell or we do (neither expected but you never know). Right now we are looking at it as a somewhat temporary solution - will never be our main field - and probably only want to put them up there during the winter when we can see it better with the leaves off the trees. Just 1 gelding horse and one pony mare who don't try to escape and will probably be thrilled to have a nice grazing area.

DH is concerned the fiberglass posts look too flimsy, so I guess that does leave us with t-posts.

Boy, you have a gorgeous property!

Nov. 28, 2009, 12:42 PM
Thanks for the feedback on the fiberglass posts, Poltroon.
I can't imagine why horses would venture away from grazing into woods/brush and down a hill to boot (unless something was chasing them I suppose, but they would have the option to just run down the dirt hill, same way they got up there. We want the fence on this side though as otherwise they could conceivably go through the woods, across a creek bed and into the neighbor's yard. As I mentioned, two other sides have barbed wire (not what we would choose but figured since it's mostly covered up by trees/bushes and again, they'd be leaving a grassy field area to go against it, we should be okay).

We need about 570 ft. Were thinking 3 rails but maybe 2 would suffice as again, just really don't see them going off into the woods when they have a big grassy field and there'd be no reason that it would be eaten down to where they would want to duck their heads under.

If a heavy t-post is fine for a corner, that is great news as we were thinking we'd have to do a wood post in concrete, which we'd really like to avoid (it is a bear to get the auger to work in this somewhat rocky soil sometimes).

Did you put the fiberglass posts 16' apart or closer?

Nov. 28, 2009, 02:47 PM
My fiberglass posts are roughly 16' apart. Since it's temporary fencing, I don't measure with a tape, just walk it off with my course-walking step.

I like to use the really long, heavy duty t-posts. (8'). When installed, they're tall enough that a horse really is unlikely to do any damage to himself. And, of course, they are capped. When you put the corner posts in, lean them out a little to resist the tension.

I attach the insulators to the T-posts with zip ties.

The ends of my fence are on wood posts, and the solar charger is mounted there also, along with the grounding rods. If you don't want to install grounding rods, look at Horseguard's bipolar fence. It's more expensive, but the grounding rods aren't exactly cheap either. And, it should work better in very dry conditions.

You'll want to budget for a T-post pounder and a T-post puller, around $40 each.

I have a Parmak 6V solar charger, but people here say to buy the Parmak 12V. In my case, I originally bought it for a ridiculously short run, and it has done OK, but I can see that for my problem pony I need a bit more punch. The next charger I buy will be the 12V. My location gets plenty of sun.

Daydream Believer
Nov. 28, 2009, 06:04 PM
We used salt treated wood posts..kind of greenish brown...with the brown tape. It looks very good!

Nov. 28, 2009, 07:33 PM
We have a "temporary" pasture made completely of the fiberglass poles and two strands of Horseguard. Agreed, using the fiberglass poles at the corners is not best practice, but it's amazing how well this set-up has lasted, considering it's "temporary" and all. :lol:

It's the site of my future outdoor arena, for when I have an extra $15 grand lying around to put into grading and packing and sand and all that good stuff. Hence, the fencing is "temporary" -- long-term temporary.

Nov. 28, 2009, 08:03 PM
We just ordered these to cover up our metal T posts that we use as a lane to separate our horses in their split rail paddock:


Nov. 28, 2009, 08:25 PM
We just ordered these to cover up our metal T posts that we use as a lane to separate our horses in their split rail paddock:


That's basically what I used with my Horseguard tape. I only have a small section of it (separating the dry lot from the paddock (about 75'). I used metal T-posts with the sleeves and caps. It looks great & is going on year 3 with no problems. I think I ordered the sleeves directly from Horseguard, because I only needed enough for about 7 posts (I have a 12' gate on one end).

Nov. 29, 2009, 02:55 AM
First off... I LOVE my Horseguard fencing! :D

Second... I use t-posts with the cover kits as well as PT posts in the corners. I lost ONE t-post cover when a tree came down on my fence last winter. The post itself was fine, we just slipped a new cover on. I love the quality of their fencing materials.

Good to know about the temporary fencing posts! I am going to need them for next spring when I set up my pasture fencing.