Adding a gusset

[Weighaton]

I have some dress boots that no longer fit in the calf. I do not want to buy new boots because I do not want to have to break them in. How do you have a gusset added without being there in person to have everything measured?

I found a boot repair place in NM that detailed on their website how they cut, measure and tape the boot in order to replace with a gusset. Seeing as I am in LA how am I going to guarantee a good fit without being there? Couldn't I just take out the back seam myself and tape it and then send it to be repaired?

Does anyone know of a good boot repair place in Louisiana?

[Seven-up]

Any good shoe repair place should be able to do it.

There's a tack shop or two around where you are, right? Maybe call them and ask for a recommendation.

I've taken mine to a shoe place in BR to have gussets taken out, and I know others who have had them added at the same place. Worst case scenario, you could cruise on over to BR to have it done. All they do is sew a triangular piece of elastic in the top. Seems like it would be awful costly to send boots out of state for that.


ETA: The gusset they add is on the inside of the calf. They don't touch the back seam.

[Weighaton]

I remember a shoe repair place on Third Street in downtown BR. I wonder if he could do it?

Ok as far as the gusset on the inside of the calf? How would that work? I am thinking gusset on the back seam so it wouldn't really show. Inside the calf would rub- no?

[Seven-up]

See where the gusset is on the inside of this boot? http://www.doversaddlery.com/ariat-maestro-pro-dress-boot/p/X1-38149/cn/9/

That's what they do. Make a little slice and then add a triangular piece of heavy elastic so that it makes the calf wider. That's where you'd need to add room, at the top of the calf. They make most new boots with this gusset already in there because it improves fit. It seems like it would rub, but it doesn't.

I'll have to see if the shoe place I'm thinking of is still open. Third St. is always changing, so just check ahead of time to make sure it's still there.

I'd still try calling Bridles & Britches or what's the other one, English Riding Shop or something? (Unless they suggest you send your boots out. That's just too much trouble.)


Yup, the place I used is still there. http://www.edgewoodshoes.com/f_repairs_other.htm

[Weighaton]

Thanks, Seven-up. I appreciate the help. I am going to call them tomorrow.

[nightsong]

I thought it was a strip along the seam. also. How else to get the actual calf circumference (if, indeed, that is your problem) larger? Second the opinion that other shoe repair places could probably handle it, perhaps other leatherworkers as well.

[Weighaton]

Well there is a strip on top of the back seam. My thought was to remove the strip, split the back seam, put my foot in the boot and then pull the top up and around. Leather or elastic could be added on either side of the seam to give me the added room I need. The problem is I can completely visualize it and can only hope they can do it. Or maybe even add a zipper in the back with extra wide elastic on each side.

[Weighaton]

Ok I just called Egdewood and he understood exactly what I was wanting. He said they won't look factory perfect (obviously) but they can split that back seam and give me some extra room.

[Giddy-up]

The gusset is only going to help at the top opening. Is that the only spot you need it?

I needed my entire boots just bigger. They took out that back strip & replaced it with a new wider strip. I had that done by Dehner. Boots fit great now.

[Weighaton]

Do you have any photos of your boots? I would love to have something to show the repair person.

[Giddy-up]

Do you have any photos of your boots? I would love to have something to show the repair person.

No I don't. All the pics I have are from the side or front.

When I called Dehner originally (I wanted a gusset, but that wouldn't have worked) they were the ones who said to just re-measure my calves & send it in with my boots. When they put in the wider back strip (it runs from the top to ankle area of the boot) I think they maybe had to re-work some of the area around the ankle? My boots are fully lined & field boots so maybe that changes things?

There is nobody close to you that you can take the boots in & discuss? I found a local cobbler that does awesome work. I had to travel to a few shoe shops & talk with some before I found one that I felt we were both on the same page.

[AiryFairy]

Mine were custom DerDau's from a long time ago - when they needed to be bigger, I sent them back and had a zipper put up the back with an elastic gusset - they did a fantastic job, and they're every so much easier to get on than pulling them on.