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PROTACKGUY
Jun. 16, 2009, 07:17 AM
FULL ANILINE/SAUVAGE (A)

The most attractive and natural leathers which are prized for their soft natural feel. These are leathers which have been aniline dyed in a vat process with no colour coating added to the surface. They are the most expensive leathers to produce because only the very best selection of hides can be used to produce full aniline leathers. Full aniline dyed leathers are more susceptible to absorbing liquids because of the natural porosity of the hide. Because they don't have a top coating the leather breathes more easily and is cooler to sit on.


PULL UP ANILINE (A)

This is a type of aniline leather (described above) that has an extra top treatment of oil and/or wax effects. These Pull Up leathers are designed to become "distressed" looking through time and use. Its properties are similar to full aniline but in places of heavy use, the oils will be pushed away leaving lighter areas - particularly on the seating areas. It will also scratch easily. Leather Master has special products designed to restore the look and feel of Pull Up leathers.


SEMI-ANILINE (A)

Semi-Aniline dyed leathers have been both dyed through and have a thin finishing layer on the surface. They offer a combination of the softness and feel of full aniline leather with the protective benefits of a surface finish. By dyeing the leather through before the final thin top coating is applied, a very even colouration is achieved with only a thin layer of finish. Thus the leather remains softer because it is not necessary to apply a thick top coating.



PIGMENTED (P)

The leather may be buffed (corrected) to reduce heavy natural scarring and blemishes in the hides. It is then coloured with a coating containing opaque pigments and embossed with a grain pattern to ensure a uniformity of colour and resistance to fading.


NUBUCK(N): also called - CHAPS, STONEWASHED OR SUEDE.

These are actually aniline leathers where the surface has been brushed, and have created a texture similar to a velvet on leather. Many people confuse these with suede leather. Suede is the flesh side of a piece of leather, and nubuck is an effect that is done to the grain side. This brushing actually breaks the surface and opens up the leather even more making it incredibly soft. The brushing also makes the leather even more absorbent than aniline leathers.


BYCAST LEATHERS - (B): also called - COATED LEATHER.

This is a new development in using split leather. It is produced from the lower split by first melting a type of glue on the surface, then rolling on a film of coloured polyurethane.
It normally is produced in darker colours and when stretched it lightens. It also scratches quite easily. This type of leather is now coming on to the furniture market but has been used for handbags and belts for some time.
This product varies in quality. It is recomend that any ByCast leather used is independently tested to minimum British Standards.
It is also important that the temperature of room that the ByCast leather is kept remains below 30°C.
As the top surface has a high polyurethane finish normal leather creams should NOT be used. Leather Master, have developed a Soft Life Cleaning and Care Kit especially for Bycast leather.

mvp
Jun. 16, 2009, 07:35 AM
Good insider info as always, PROTACKGUY

I think I have seen examples of each kind of leather you describe. I'll "name names," or at least guess so that those of us looking at leather in finished products can put a face with a name. Correct me if I'm wrong?

So the leather you might see on a Butet, for example, is full aniline? The printed grain texture, it seem to me, can be used with this dying/tanning technique? I'm thinking of calf-skin seats versus grained flaps, with both types of leather taking oil well.

I can't picture what Pull Up analine leather looks like.

I think Semi-aniline is what I'm seeing in many think kinds of calf used especially in English saddles. It feels nice but decidedly has a too-opaque color to it. See, perhaps, Black Country's and Frank Baines' seats and flaps?

Pigmented-- This is what many people complain about, particularly with Orange ("Newmarket") colored bridles that don't actually take in oil and darken?

I got the suede/nubuck distinction. Dansko clogs are a classic example of nubuck.

Bycast leather. Perhaps most of us have seen this in cheaper human accessories. Thinking we know how to love leather, we believe that our skill in choosing oils versus glycerine versus waxy-type products will make it look like leather tanned better in the first place. Kinda, kinda not.

I guess the big phat question is how to find full aniline leather?

BAC
Jun. 16, 2009, 10:42 AM
Thanks, I love this kind of information.

BAC
Jun. 16, 2009, 10:49 AM
So are all three of these the same type of leather with the only difference being the finishing or coating they receive or did I misunderstand? Would the slight coating be a benefit or is full aniline superior? The pull up aniline would be my preference from reading your post but is it a lesser quality than full aniline? TIA.