?? for those who ride Western

[Coreene]

So, just a for instance. If your saddle was a 18 1/2" with a wide tree, and it was going on a big Holsteiner, what kind of Western saddle would you be looking for?

Not like I'm going over to that side, but was thinking it might be fun to take Oliver out to a friend's ranch on vacation this summer and have no desire to ride around in a dressage or hunter saddle. :lol:

[Silence]

I think my friend's jumping saddle is a 17 inch, and I fit just fine in that, but my western saddle is a 16 or 16 and a half, and I fit just fine in that too. So maybe a size down on the seat?

Wide tree, you probably want Quarter Bars in a Western saddle.

[sublimequine]

Subtract 2 inches to get your western seat size.

I ride in a 17" AP saddle. When riding western, I use a 15".

As for tree width, I'd probably go for Semi Quarter Horse Bars.

[Coreene]

:cool:

And no, I will not use this as an excuse to get all the silver bling bells and whistles to go with it. I keep telling myself this, at least. :lol:

[Murphy's Mom]

I ride in an 18" english saddle. I can fit in a 16" western saddle, but I bought a 17" western saddle and it is definitely more roomy for my ample posterior. :lol: You'll probably want full QH bars. I love my western saddle for trail riding.

[VAHorseGurl]

Start out with a wire coat hanger, untwist it and shape it to your horses withers area and then measure. That should help you find the right size saddle.

As for half or whole quarter horse bars, it's been my experience, if you need a wide tree, you'll need whole bars, but there are some trainers out there that will tell you there is 'no such thing as half or whole quarter horse bars'. I've never taken the time to research this, so I can't honestly say.

As for seat size, I think sublimequine is correct about the seat. Good luck! And you know you can't have western without all the bling bling. LMAO! ;)

[monstrpony]

Mine is a 16" "98" Wade tree saddle. In spite of the fact that everyone says a Wade will fit anything, it is a skosh tight on my big propane tank QH, and the gullet isn't quite high enough for my more TB-type fellow. And, being a larger gal myself, it can be a bit, umm, confining for me, would love to find a 17" seat.

Hopefully, you can try a few on your guy's back. The issues will be width AND gullet height. In spite of their width, WB types still tend to be more slab-shouldered ("A" framed) than mutton-withered QHs, so w/o seeing his back, I can't say whether or not a full QH or semi-QH bar will be needed. If he has prominent withers, you'll need to pay attention to gullet height, or get an extra pad and cut the withers out of it. Even less prominent WB withers can be a challenge for many western saddles. Fortunately, with western pads, you can cut a slit for withers or take out a "v" shaped section and the pad doesn't totally lose it's shape. Still need to be careful when saddling to make sure it doesn't crease, but I do it for my TB type guy with a thinner felt pad on top of a non-altered felt pad and it solves his problem.

If you find something with a flank cinch, you might want to let him bounce on a longe line or in a round pen (in all three gaits) while he gets used to that feel, it can be a little "goosey" feeling if they haven't felt it before. Unless you're actually going to be doing any fast-moving, quick direction changes or actually roping, you don't need a flank cinch and it can be removed if you don't want to have to do this little experiment.

Otherwise--Have Fun!

[Coreene]

Murphy's Mom, may I ask which brand and make it is?

Now, as for the bling. Half of me just wants a nice Joe Ranch Ordinary saddle. With a Joe Ranch Ordinary pad and such. The horse doesn't even neck rein, so that of course will be in screaming contrast to the Joe Ranch Ordinary saddle, but whatever.

And then there's the part of me that wants the basket stamped silver bling ta-ra-ra-boom-deeyay saddle.

Gonna be quite the choice.

[Catersun]

lol coreene... Should I ever (and I probably will eventaully as we think team penning as a family sounds like fun) take the plunge and rider *horrors* western.... I will be going with a buckaroo saddle on a wade tree. Built to have your feet under you in correct form and comfortable enough for all day work in the saddle. Take a look into the wade tree vs standard western trees. Or better yet find one to test ride.

[goodhors]

Not to be offensive, but an 18 1/2 seat saddle in western is HUGE. They don't measure or fit like an English (any model) 18 inch seat saddle. I think the newer saddles are so big to accomodate folks with larger stomachs. Lots of "weekend Warriors" riding those big sizes, yet not putting much mileage on the horse.

I would suggest going to a tack store, sitting on a large variety of Western saddles, to see what feels comfortable. Then measure it so you can shop. How does the cantle wrap around your rump, tight, loose? Can your legs fall into postition with no work? Leather softened enough to not fight for leg or foot position? Sorry, in Western saddles you are not going to "feel" the horse like on English saddles. Horse can feel you, does respond though!

When I was a kid, LOONG time ago, there were very few 15" seat saddles. Anything larger was a custom made one. Seemed like everyone fit their saddles pretty well in that size range. Did a lot of actual riding, mileage, performance then.

Yes there are larger seats available now, but I think many folks have saddles too large for them, or poorly designed so it takes a larger size to be comfortable sitting on it. I have ridden a 14 1/2 seat for many years, weighing in at 125 to 150 pounds, medium build with longer legs. Saddle had a fairly flat seat that allowed me to be above my legs, not pushed involuntarily back against cantle, with a built up seat front. I also like a lower cantle that allows me to move easier, instead of the higher cantle holding me in place, like barrel riders often have. Higher cantle for them, prevents sliding backwards in the power take-off of a speed horse.

I am shopping right now for a new saddle, lots to consider. First is gullet width for shoulder room on a big WB style. You should get him measured, so it will fit well. Then what kind of rigging will you want. Make a line straight down thru the horn and skirt. Does the front rigging for girth strap line up with horn or is it behind the line? I am looking at a 7/8 rigging, which puts the girth behind the horn, to get it behind the elbow area. Full double is in line with horn line, but is a little too forward for my horse, with his very wide shoulder area. I would not get a centerfire, which puts girth ring almost under your leg. Doesn't work well on modern built horses.

Skirt length can be a consideration, some saddles have VERY big, square skirts. My horse is very short backed, a breed characteristic, so my skirts have to be 27 inches or less, so he is not covered in the loin area. Not hitting skirt corners as he bends. Round skirts are available, just not as much selection in the other details I want on my saddle. I like a narrow twist, but may not find one on the saddle that fits my horse. Weight is a consideration, I don't want to heft a 45# saddle up there anymore. Not roping calves, so heavy leather is not needed.

My horse is not small, 16.2H, but not as large as our other Sporthorses, so the old saddle doesn't fit him as well. Hasn't been worked much, so has muscle to develop yet. Has good withers, needs clearance there.

Something to consider with the very large seats on Western saddles, is that the tree is made longer to hold saddle seat, so the bars ends are VERY LONG TOO and any sitting on your rump, will dig in the back end on horse back. Too big a seat will not allow you to sit still, so that makes it work to ride. Afraid I would not allow anyone with a saddle that big on one of my animals. They would sore him up in a very short time, even with thick padding.

You will want to use a good thick pad, practice riding the horse for awhile with the western saddle to get his back used to it. I have always used the old white fleece pads, 3 layer with a thin blanket to protect the pad from wear. Fleece lets the back get wet, stay wet with drainage off the sides. I ride light, but have had no sore horses, ever. This was trail riding, often 50 miles or more a day at slower speeds. I don't loosen the girth when I get off, do try to dismount every couple hours and walk a little. Keeps me nimble, rests the horse's back from pressure, maybe they would like to pee. When I get into camp, horse is tied with hay to munch, saddle off after 30 minutes or more. I do other things during that time. Get water, horse can have drinks, clean hooves. Make me something to eat. Sounds silly, but the back pressure equalizing, pressure sores from ungirthing immediately, do happen. Horse munching, still girthed, fixes themselves, no problems if left alone for a time. I have seen the "kind rider" end up with unrideable horse after all that girth loosening, rubbing down, extra care as quick as they come into camp.

You may want to have a couple pads, so you can start the day with a dry one. I use the Y shaped breast collar when trail riding. Prevents any saddle sliding back too far, might save you from saddle turning ALL the way over if girth gets loose during the day. Loose happens, even after you have checked twice, as horse gets ridden all day.

[findeight]

Coreene....all I can say is BROKEN HORN.

Ask them.

Now, they do not build the finest saddles in the world but they are reasonable and have many friends who have been very satisfied with mid priced kind of fancy and not so fancy semi customs as well as store brand off the rack.

Why not go talk to them? They are friendly and knowledgeable and it won't cost a thing except the gas to go over. You can sit in a bunch of them.

Might be a good place to start-and they have used stuff too.

I might suggest finding or ordering what they call a "strainer" in the seat. It makes it narrower at the twist and much easier for you to sit in, especially of you are not that tall and have a beer barrel of a horse under you.

I had a Forrest Knott back when with that strainer and it made all the difference in the world comfort wise. BTW I wanted basket weave on that one but went with oak leaf and acorn becasue it was what you did back then before basket weave was "the thing".

[MidlifeCrisis]

I ride in an 18" dressage saddle, not for thigh length but for my ample rear.
My western saddle is a 15 1/2". It's a McCall's Ladies Wade (http://www.dryforksaddle.com/LaydyWade.htm). Of all my saddles (other 3 are english), this once gives me the most security even though I feel that I have nothing in front of me. No thigh rolls, no knee rolls, just the horn. But I stick like glue when my horse spins. And interestingly, it's improved my dressage seat. No matter how hard I try, I can not grip with my thighs in this saddle. And I think the position it puts me in is closest to a dressage seat of any of the western saddles out there.
You need to sit in a bunch of saddles to find which will fit your seat bones (bring a book). It's just like dressage saddles. Some will feel too wide and some will feel too narrow. Don't be scared of a hard seat. If it's the right shape, it's comfortable for hours.
If you go with a used higher end saddle, you'll be able to recoup your purchase price when you decide to sell.
Also, I went with a 5-Star wool pad which has a nice wither cutout.

[saddleup]

I have a Martin trail saddle which I love. It's double rigged and has a little pouch for my hoof pick and tons of strings to tie trail essentials with. I also have a Dale Chavez that I love..it's lighter, but still gorgeous with just a touch of sterling silver here and there.

I hauled my two horses over to the tack store and tried on saddles in the parking lot. I don't suppose there's any way you can do that? We tried about 15 saddles that day before I found the Martin that fit my horses and myself.

[Zipsmom]

My saddle is a 17 inch stubben and I ride in a 16 inch western-- but I like it roomy--

[luvs2ride79]

You'd likely need a 16-17" Western (depending on seat shape and padding) and Full QH bars (Wide tree).

I use an 18.5-19" English saddle with a wide tree and I have an early 1980s Circle Y Park & Trail in a 17" seat and FQHB tree and it works great! I have a 17" Abetta Endurance (no horn) with the regular QH tree and it's done well on almost all the horses I have ridden.

[luvs2ride79]

Murphy's Mom, may I ask which brand and make it is?

Now, as for the bling. Half of me just wants a nice Joe Ranch Ordinary saddle. With a Joe Ranch Ordinary pad and such. The horse doesn't even neck rein, so that of course will be in screaming contrast to the Joe Ranch Ordinary saddle, but whatever.

And then there's the part of me that wants the basket stamped silver bling ta-ra-ra-boom-deeyay saddle.

Gonna be quite the choice.

Just keep in mind that you get what you pay for... You're MUCH better off getting a quality used saddle for $300-800 than a new "blingy" saddle in that same price range. You can always ADD silver and bling later, or go with "blingy" accessories, like pad, bridle, breastcollar, etc.

[mp]

I second (or is it third) the full QH bars and a 16-17" seat, depending on the style of the saddle.

I'll also second going used, if you can. You'll get a lot more saddle for the money and well-cared for older western saddles usually have better leather and overall workmanship than most of the new ones. Go to the biggest western tack store in your area and sit in a bunch of styles, so you can avoid the ones that put you in the western slumpy chair seat.

Look for a saddle with turned stirrups -- ones that are bound with leather, so that the stirrup is perpendicular to the horse's barrel, not parallel. Otherwise you'll be fighting those big fat fenders to keep you toes pointed forward and your knees will suffer.

I started out riding western and the first time I sat in a dressage saddle, I thought it felt just like my western saddle -- nice and deep with my legs right underneath me. But I had my saddle made by a friend 12 years ago, so I have no idea what style it would be. (But it does have basketweave and handcarved sunflowers. I had no idea b-w was the in thing.)

And go for all the bling you want. I'm thinking about showing WP again just so I can get duded up in my 30X hat and fringed chaps, and ride my mare in her silvery saddle, breastplate and headstall. We shiney. ;)

PS - if you're looking for sticktoyourhorsey-ness, go with rough-out skirts. It's like having a velcro butt.

[Coreene]

Thanks, I love you guys for all of your help, thank you for taking the time to give me your advice. I would have not had a clue as to where to start (except, of course, for a trip to Broken Horn). :)

Goodhors, it's my dressage and hunter saddles that are 18 1/2". Actually my dressage saddle is 19".

I should never have gone to Tractor Supply this past weekend. I had to go up to Oakdale in Northern California for a family funeral, and after a jolly trip to Oakdale Feed, I made the mistake of going to Tractor Supply. That was a new one for me. Two bling belts later, I was all ready for a hot date with Luke Branquinho. Probably because one of my cousins, long ago, was the only Oakdale Rodeo Queen who was from Holland. :lol:

My guess is that we will find a nice used saddle and not worry about the bling, bells and whistles.

Now I have to teach Oliver to neck rein. :winkgrin: And as much as I wish that was a joke, I have never bothered and he did not come equipped with that skill - my gawd, even Willem came with it! Actually, I rode Willem once in a Western saddle, back in like 1993. Probably the last time I rode Western, come to think of it. He Was Not Amused, but we thought he looked very handsome.

[Leather]

One thing to keep in mind is that many of the working/roping/ranch saddles will be around 40 lbs--not fun to hoist up on a 17 hand horse!

If you're looking for pure comfort Barcalounger type riding, look into Tuckers.

http://www.tuckersaddles.com/catalog1.shtml


I prefer the endurance type saddles--you get the security of the Western saddle with no horn to get your bra hung up on when dismounting. :lol:

I've got an Abetta Trinity Endurance saddle--it's got a memory foam seat that's super comfy and it only weighs 16 lbs.

http://www.buytack.com/products/saddles/act/20554.htm

As others have said, the general rule of thumb is subtract two inches from your English saddle size to get the Western equivalent.

For the tree/bars:
quarter horse bars = narrow
semi-quarter horse bars = medium
full quarter horse bars = wide

[Go Fish]

The type of seat/saddle will affect seat size. Cutting saddles, for instance, have a very flat, unpadded seat...pleasure saddle seats are more padded in front. The point being the saddle is built to place you in a certain spot in the seat. Pleasure saddles are the most comfortable, in my opinion. But I prefer a cutting saddle for the freedom of movement possible in the seat.

Keep in mind fender size - it makes a difference, particularly if you are short legged.

[Tamara in TN]

[QUOTE=Coreene;3853091]So, just a for instance. If your saddle was a 18 1/2" with a wide tree, and it was going on a big Holsteiner, what kind of Western saddle would you be looking for?


Coates Cutter


best

[Brockstables]

I am teaching my Morgan to neckrein. He is second level dressage, and he is learning quickly, but it is not pretty!
Geesh... my WP Arab is beautiful to watch, and barely a touch of the rein.
Good luck with Oliver and going Western...

[Vesper Sparrow]

I ride in a 18" (shallow seat) or 18.5" (deep seat) dressage saddle, but a 15.5" or 16" Western fits me just fine. They do weigh a ton and when I took Western lessons and was riding a tall horse, I would have to find a tall person to hoist it up for me, especially when laying it over various combinations of saddle pads.

I'd love to have a Western saddle to play around in. I think neck reining would be fairly intuitive for a horse to learn. My TB does it and I don't think anyone has formally taught her.

[pinkdiamondracing]

Here's a tip--- send Tuppysmom a PM-- we owned a saddle shop when I was a kid, and most people don't know this, but Mr Tuppy was a saddle maker for about 20 years before he became an eventer trainer.
As far as factory saddles go, I personally prefer the Circle Y brand. I bought mine brand new in 1998-- have ridden in it 7 days a week for 12 years, and only now just wore the fenders out and had them replaced.
Circle Y makes a really comfy barrel saddle which sits just like a dressage saddle-- deep seat, legs under you, etc.

[Coreene]

:D

Thanks again, you guys are so helpful! Oliver and I are officially NOT going Western, but I do not want to go to a ranch in my dressage saddle. Just for reference, which I should have said early on, I am 5'9", have very long legs and am of the Abbondanza persuasion. Not a tiny gal. Big gal, big horse.

But certainly there will be less of me by later this summer. Already much less of me since I started the Get Rid Of Your Fat Ass diet.

[Bluey]

I have worked cattle all these years in my Stubben Rex.
Other than roping, you really don't need a western saddle for any kind of cattle work.
You can even cut without a horn to hang on.;)

Now, if you just want a western saddle for fun, I have my 16" English one and use a western saddle the local saddler makes for all cattlemen, cowboys and even made one for President Bush:

http://www.oliversaddle.com/page/page/535187.htm

That is not me in their front page.:lol:

My saddle is a 14", on a lady modified association #95 tree:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a298/Robintoo/Horses2-20-07854.jpg?t=1233617287

Unlike those slick fork saddles, mine has some nice small swells, something you will be glad for in those bump on the log western saddles.
Most everyone that gets the A swells adds bucking rolls for comfort, as they are so very slick.
They are the old type tree and old cowboys would roll a blanket and tie it there, before someone finally got smart and added swells to the saddle tree itself.

If you are not going to buckaroo country, or for the old timey, punchy look, I would pass on those slick fork ones.:p

On the cantle, the Cheyenne roll kind is easier on your behind, if a horse were to buck some.
That is the narrow shelflike leather band on the cantle.

If you decide to get a western saddle after all, why not wait until you get there and so you will be in the area where the good ones are made and sold?
Used ones are plentiful, most places let you try them out and you may as well get something on the spot that you know will fit you and the horse.

If you go that route, let your friends know and they will have some spotted here and there for you.:)
Nothing worse than riding several hours on a saddle that sores you or your horse.:eek:

[CA ASB]

Coreene - my ASBs go in semi-QH bars, so I'm thinking you'll probably need the full bars. If you go the used route, lots of good deals out at Thrifty Horse in Norco - and they'll even let you try the saddle on Oliver. Of course, if you are ready for buh-buh-buhling, you could always borrow one of my parade saddles! But, not so comfy for the ranch work - but would work for a rodeo queen on parade!

[Foxtrot's]

I'm not a western rider, and have always found that the saddles have killed my knees if I have been riding in a random "dude" saddle. But then I rode in a loaner that was a Vic Bennett custom made one. Oh my, what a difference. It was really comfortable. Quite different, even for my English tuned muscles.

However, I do like going up country to my friends' ranches and moving cattle - I just ride English in my fancy dancy sticky bum jodhs. Nobody jokes after the first day when they see my horse and how brave she is and what she does.

Do, do try the saddle so you know it is right for you and your horse.

If you end up going English after all the searching, just buy a large square saddle pad that has the pockets for your water, lunch and leatherman. I threaded leather thongs through mine for my rain jacket behind the cantle.

[mypaintwattie]

Seat size is a personal thing like english and depends on the saddle- my english saddles are a 16.5" and my western saddle is a 15.5".

Coreene- If you want you can try my saddle on Oliver. It has some bling :D Otherwise I can try to pull a few strings with my western trainers and get some different ones for you to try. :winkgrin:

Oh, by the way, once you start down this path it's hard not to continue...

[tuppysmom]

Find yourself a custom saddle maker and let him/her find you a saddle to fit you and your horse. The difference between a factory made saddle and a handmade * even if it's an older than dirt handmade saddle* is amazing.

We made saddles and trees for many many years. I have many not so fond memories of stitching rawhide while pregnant, yuck . Mr. Tuppy is a second generation saddle maker. He makes/ or did make buckaroo saddles for the working cowboys out here in the SW.

On the question of full QH bars and reg bars. The difference is in the amount of twist from front to back in the bars. FQH bars lay much flatter at the gullet than do a reg twist bar and have nearly no rock to them, (rock is front to back). If your horse has withers you would get a better fit by spreading the gullet width of the reg bar. FQH are so flat that they will, 1. be too low in the gullet for a horse with withers, 2. rock and roll around. A great fitting saddle will sit up there and stay in place for general riding with a fairly loose girth, a FQH tree may need to be snugged up to keep it on.

7/8ths rigging has been the most popular since the ranchers quit riding the skinny little range raised brumbys and started using more of a TB type of horse. You'll want a rear cinch with it.

5/8ths is the second most popluar position. You can use a rear cinch with or sometimes get by without on a good withered horse.

Deffinately get stirrup leathers with a half twist so that they hang right. If you find the perfect saddle and it does not have a half twist, a saddle maker can change them for you.

Seat size is dependant on several things. The higher the cantle the longer the seat will measure, but you may not have more room. So a 16in. seat with a 5 inch cantle won't ride any bigger than a 15 inch seat with a 4 in. cantle. more or less, kinda sorta. It's best to sit in the saddle to fit. A good saddlemaker will scoop the seat so that it feels quite a bit like a dressage saddle.

I like a slick fork 15 or 15 1/2 in seat, with 4 in cantle, small post horn,( with a chrome split wrap for a RH dally), buckin rolls, tiny cheyene roll, round skirts, one piece fenders with Blevins buckles and half holes, a combo - rough out with the seat jockeys and fork cover basket stamped, put my intials on the back of the cantle. I like mine to weigh in at 28 lbs.

If you want one like that I can give you the name of the man who bought our shop 15 years ago. He makes a very nice saddle that you can ride all day. The wait is about a year, though. He may have something used, but they don't sit around the shop very long when they come in on trade.

[Plumcreek]

Correne, luckily for you, people who show western are slaves to fashion. Darker oiled saddles are OUT, as is any buckstitching. You can probably find a nice used saddle that is broken in and comfortable. Do go to Broken Horn and sit in seat sizes. I like the reining saddles as the stirrups are hung more like an english saddle.

It is perfectly Ok to ride in a western saddle and english bridle with 2 hands. Go with whatever will be safe for you and Oliver.

[CA ASB]

Plumcreek - depends on the breed you ride. For Saddlebreds, dark oil is IN, you don't see any light oil (thank God, I think it's uglier than sin). Once in awhile, you'll see medium oil.

But, for a working saddle, any color is fine.

[tuppysmom]

In buckaroo country it is the usual that if you are riding in a snaffle bridle that you are using two hands.

[Coreene]

I love you guys! :sadsmile: What fabulous advice and information. I should have bought one long ago for Willem - he would have gotten over the drama and loved it. Years ago, I would ocasionally hack my old mare in an old Western saddle, but when I gave her to a young gal the saddle went with her, stupid me.

[Coreene]

PS: deep down, I would love to show in Working Cowhorse classes. ;)

[Ambrey]

I do well in a 17" western. Make sure the stirrups aren't set too far forward (reining type) or you'll feel way off balance.

I'm going to guess a full QH bar.

My stepmother posted a photo on facebook of a bunch of horses tied near their house. When I professed enormous homesickness and jealousy, and we discussed trailering the horses up there for a nice ranch vacation, I started picturing me riding around with the family in my dressage saddle... funny sight!

I did see a photo of someone working cows in a snaffle, though, so dressage saddles are the wave of the future ;)

p.s. I've heard either the Big Horn or Abetta synthetics are pretty decent- when we were at Equine Affaire, we saw some Big Horn synthetics with memory foam seats- I was tempted! Remember that a fully rigged leather western saddle weighs about 35 lbs- that's why western horses are all around 15 hands high :winkgrin: Were I to go that direction, I'd get a synthetic, but Smokey would need a draft bar.

[bugsynskeeter]

PS: deep down, I would love to show in Working Cowhorse classes. ;)

As long as you understand that if you ever do...there's no going back to anything else. Its addictive...in the worst possible way :)

[Coreene]

Thank goodness there is no place around here where I could do it in the first place! :lol: But Ambrey, gotta say, hell would freeze over before I would own anything synthetic. Oh my God, the mere thought. Aunt Esther and I would both drop dead. :yes:

[maximus2244]

I am going to second Thrifty Horse in Norco. I love that I can bring my horses with me and try them on.

[silver2]

If you think you might get wet I'd recommend against a padded foam seat as they can chafe pretty badly when wet. I got a rub on my butt on one long ride and it was not fun! I like A-fork slick saddles, the wider pleasure style ones bother my knees but that is entirely a personal preference so sit in a few saddles and see what you like.

[CA ASB]

Coreene - you know my size. I ride in a 15" ... My show saddle is a Dale Chavez custom semi-quarter and the working saddle is an old Circle Y.

BTW, all my ASBs have taken about 1-2 lessons to learn how to neck rein. Even riding English on the trail, I like to ride one-handed, so they all get to learn. Especially easy if they know their leg cues. However, for trail riding, they actually go in hackamores.

[monstrpony]

Coreene--presumeably, somewhere in his education Oliver was taught to do a turn on the forehand. Usually, to introduce moving from the leg. So, lay your outside rein against his neck, put your inside leg back and ask the haunches to move, voila, you're on your way to neck reining. If you can't move the forehand w/ the rein, move the haunches to point in the direx you want to go. It's a start, refine from there. Move toward a turn on the haunches in motion (think outside rein). You have the tools in your box, just put them together in some new ways.

But it is true that no self-respecting buckaroo would fault your for riding w/ two hands with a plain snaffle. You will have to forego roping ;). Don't sweat it.

[findeight]

Ahhh...forgot about the rigging options. And you will find you have a preference.

IIRC, and it's been 30 years, 7/8ths has the cinch set fairly far forward-which can make the back flip up depending on horse shape...and I do not like using that back cinch to hold the back of a saddle down, it's for stopping it flipping up when a steer hits the end of the rope on a dally, not to hold it on. Bad choice for the mutton withered or downhill, better for sharp withers and uphill most of the time.

5/8ths pretty middle of the road. IIRC this is what I had. Did not ever have the back cinch on but it had the slot set into the skirt (silver trimmed of course).

3/4 has the cinch ring set right where my leg was properly placed. Didn't work for me and put too much saddle ahead of proper girth placement on my horses.

Placement of that girth can make a difference in fit so it is important to be aware that something like full QH bars will fit different with 7/8ths then 5/8ths.

Besides the turned stirrups, look for ones that have the Blevins Buckle (the slidy thing that allows you to adjust stirrup length) set inside the leathers, not outside where the leftover length can hang in front of your foot. You are taller but still, they seem to think everybody is in the NBA with alot of production saddles-this can be easliy done if you want and get one with the 6" wide leftover leathers hanging in front of your foot. You can also have the Blevins Buckle swapped fopr some of the older buckle arrangemments you may find in older saddles.

You are tall enough not to worry about fender length-us shorties had to fight with the clunky full width of the fender right where the stirrup hangs on-I ordered shorter ones to solve that.

Anyway, for those that don't know, Broken Horn is a custom saddle maker in all price ranges and does it on the property-they also do silver engraving and it is cool to watch them. I am sure a trip there and talking to thier saddle department as well as sitting in alot of different seat and rigging arrangtements will be enlightening. May not be a...what is that one...Ron Horn? or something? But it's a place to start. And learn.

[Jingo-ace]

Please oh please remember how much most western saddles WEIGH!

My western saddle is like 42 pounds. Try throwing that up and over

a 16.2 hand horse a few times and see what YOUR back feels like!

Not to mention what the horse's back is going to feel like after wearing

that kind of weight for a 2-7 hour day of trail-riding or cow-herding!!!

Look for a lighter weight western saddle, like a flex-lite Circle Y, and

put a good shock-absorbing pad underneath it, like an Equi-pedic or

a Professional choice pad. Lighter weight saddle and better quality pad

will save you & your horse from SORE BACKS!


Just IMHO, :) J

[Coreene]

Thanks everyone! Did have a Western saddle and yes they can be very heavy, which is why I am going to grab a lighter version. Actually, somewhere there is photographic evidence of me showing Western pleasure, trail and running barrels. :lol: In both fringed and scalloped chaps, no less! :eek:

[FancyFree]

Thanks everyone! Did have a Western saddle and yes they can be very heavy, which is why I am going to grab a lighter version. Actually, somewhere there is photographic evidence of me showing Western pleasure, trail and running barrels. :lol: In both fringed and scalloped chaps, no less! :eek:


Me too! I had a baby blue hat with a matching jumpsuit and navy chaps. My saddle had a lot of bling on it too. I should have kept that thing.

[findeight]

In both fringed and scalloped chaps, no less! :eek:

Bonnie Caylor's? Her sister in law made my show shirts. 6 button cuff, contrasting piping and all.

[mypaintwattie]

Besides Thrifty Horse and Broken Horn, Try American Horse Products. They have a good selection of western saddles and will let you ride before you buy. That's where I was looking before I found mine used on Tacktrader.com.

(Shameless Plug) the owner's daughter is my best friend and I used to work there :winkgrin:

[Plumcreek]

Different western saddles have different weights. My current saddle is a Bob's Doug Milholland Reiner (I have always liked the Monty Foreman flat latigo wrap feature - no lump at all under my leg). It is not heavy in the least, but very well made. The older TexTans, etc., yup they are heavy. You do not have to accept heavy, and it has nothing to do with quality.