View Full Version : Water spigot troubles

Jan. 10, 2009, 10:20 PM
We have one of those no freeze water spigots. First forgive me because I don't know the correct names...but here goes. It is one of those water spigots that is outside the barn and there is a long tube that goes inside the barn and that's where the water is. Anyway, it tends to gurgle and pop when you run the water. There is a little white cap on the top of the spigot that must allow some air in so that any excess water leaks out but seals at the water site inside the barn...Am I too confusing here?

Well, it worked fine until we had a pump problem. We had to have the whole well pump dug up, something fixed and then it put back together. We have two spigots at the barn, the above mentioned and another one that is inside the barn that is just regular water spigot. Well, when the pump stuff was over, the water ran out very silty and we had some air bubbles. The spigot inside the barn now runs fine. The water is clear and there is no air bubbles. The outside no freeze spigot which is connected to the above water source did the same but now there seems to have endless air bubbles...They come out of the same piping. How come one has air bubbles and the other doesn't? I was wondering if maybe there was a little rock in there? But why the air bubbles out of one and not the other when they are the same piping?

Oh, this is all way too confusing, I think we're going to have to get the pump man back in. If anyone knows what I'm talking about and knows what the problem is, please tell me?

Evalee Hunter
Jan. 11, 2009, 08:53 AM
I can't answer your problems, but why don't you send a private message to Tom King? I haven't seen him post here recently, but when he does, he seems to have an answer for everything.

Jan. 11, 2009, 08:56 AM
Have you tried running them both at the same time?

Jan. 11, 2009, 11:51 AM
I'm know I'm out on a limb here, I am not a plumber but I think air takes the path of least resistance usually it's the highest route possible, so if the supply line divides at some point, then trapped air will rise to the higher line.
So, is the outside spigot higher than the internal one (or is the piping you can't see higher than the line for the inside spigot). It might take the lower route if the piping is larger, so less resistance.
Perhaps a vent of some type is needed to let air escape.
I'm more interested in why you have air in your supply line.
From what little I could google, perhaps you water table is low or this (leak in the drop line to the well)

Just found this

Googling will give you some pretty good information so that you know what to ask your plumber and understand the basics (and give you peace of mind that your plumber is knowledgable).

Jan. 11, 2009, 12:58 PM
Thanks all!

I think something happened to the no freeze spigot when we had the pump fixed. Maybe a little rock or something is lodged in there. I'm going google no-freeze spigots to see what the internal mechanisms are and where a little stone might have gotten lodged and PM Tom King.

When I put the hose into water, air bubbles come out. From my understanding a no-freeze spigot let's some air in so the pipe releases the vacuum and lets out all the water so no freeze...but let me google before I actually spout off any thing...Thanks all!

I will let you know just in case this happens to anyone else...

Jan. 11, 2009, 06:32 PM
it is called a frost free hydrant.
As far as anything getting lodged into it, no. A frost free is self contained and a very simple and basic system.
The pipe goes into the ground and below frost line, where it is hooked to your water line.

I really don't understand the rest of your scenario in regards to the tube and air. Sorry.
But, I have installed a frost free hydrant so I am familiar with how they work.

Jan. 11, 2009, 06:40 PM
Actual guys, it's not a frost free hydrant. It's something else but that's not why I'm posting. I found this forum site called www.terrylove.com/forums

They are set up just like these chronicle forums and you can ask any plumbing, toilets, wells, everything and any kind of problem. I'm waiting for an answer. The guy Terry Love has responded to my forum post on his forum about my problem.

Anyway, I thought I would pass it along...I will let you know what else I find out...

Tom King
Jan. 11, 2009, 10:15 PM
Interesting problem. I'll wait to see the response too but in the meantime, how much water did you let run through the problem end?

Jan. 11, 2009, 11:06 PM
Well, I run it an hour twice a day as that's how long it takes to fill the duck's water now that it is running in fits and spurts. The inside water I ran an hour and then the next morning ran it another hour and a half.


I posted a thread with the above plumbing forum and he figured out which spigot I'm talking about but before making a diagnosis, I think he went to bed. I'll get the info in the morning.

He did post a picture with the internal workings and I had not realized what a complicated little bugger that spigot is...

Jan. 11, 2009, 11:15 PM
I love that site! Used it to fix my toilet. Especially loved "anatomy of a toilet".
Another site I recommend for radiators/furnances/boilers is www.heatinghelp.com. Bought the book "Pumping away", interesting reading (to me).
Yes the spigot is complicated.. I skimmed an article on it.
Good luck.

Jan. 12, 2009, 08:53 PM
Okay, looks like I'm going to have to take the "stem" out of this thing, let it flush whatever is in there...a small rock or something...and then put back together. Ugh, why is it this always happens when it is friggin' cold? And you have to do all this without gloves because you need to use your fingers... :mad::mad::mad: Why not when it's 70 degrees? :no::no::no:

Jan. 12, 2009, 09:31 PM
Just more info for ya.
This is a diagram of they work.

Video of changing/checking the frost free spigot.

Tom King
Jan. 12, 2009, 09:35 PM
How much is the water flow slowed down now versus what it used to be from that faucet?

Can you easily get to the pipe that goes into the back of it and if so, what type of pipe is it? If you can get to it and it's PVC, it will be easier to cut the pipe and couple it back together than disassembling the faucet. Since the seat is smaller than the pipe ID there is some possibility that anything in there can't come out anyway.

If you do pull the stem out, cut the water off first, relieve the pressure by opening the faucet, pull the guts, and then go cut the pump back on for 5 seconds to flush out any junk. Notice the condition of the washer when you have it out.

I looked at Chall's video link, but that is just the "packing nut" that keeps the thing from leaking when it is turned on. This is a more severe problem where the guts need to be pulled out to get to the seat and washer. The inards are held in by the nut beyond the packing nut.

Also, I would NEVER use an adjustable wrench on anything to do with a hydrant or faucet. Most of the parts are made of brass and can easily be screwed up beyond usefullness with an ill fitting wrench. Use the right size that fits.

Jan. 13, 2009, 11:51 AM
Thank you very much!!!

TOm: The water flow is intermittent. It'll sometimes rush out like normal, then nothing, then a trickle, then a little bit more than a trickle, then burst out more then back to nothing...When I put the hose end under water, air bubbles come out.

I am leaving for a trade show tomorrow and will worry about all this when I get back. But I'm thinking I'm going to have to get "a man." This is a bit too much for me. But thank you all!