Western Saddle Questions

[pines4equines]

I am an English rider of over 35 years and recently I broke my ankle. I've decided to go Western until my ankle is better. I started a thread a bit ago about western saddles and seat size, here's my next question:

Do I need a breast plate? Why are there two girths?

I've decided on a relativvely inexpensive Cordova Endurance Saddle. Basically western with no horn. It is also light weight about 15 lbs. Tack store is coming out shortly to do a saddle fitting on my horse, TB/QH/Perch cross PMU.

I'm an old Dressage rider but I mainly trail ride for now. The terrain I go over is pretty flat with some rolling hills, nothing too outlandishly hilly? Is that the only reason for a breast plate?

[GallopingGrape]

Generally a breast collar is needed if you are on the trails, going up and down hills to stabilize the saddle. You only need the front cinch, the rear cinch is used when roping, so when you dally the rope around the horn, with a cow at the other end of the rope, it doesn't pull your saddle up! I like to use my rear cinch to keep my saddle steady, but it is not necessary! My gaited horse has alot of 'swing' in his rear, and the rear cinch keeps it steady.

[pines4equines]

THank you so much! JUNE

[Wellspotted]

Originally posted by pines4equines:

I've decided on a relatively inexpensive Cordova Endurance Saddle.

Cordova? Or Cordura? If the latter, I can recommend Big Horn cordura saddles. They are said to be the best of the lightweight synthetic westerns. I love mine. It weighs around 15-16 lbs, less than some dressage saddles I've ridden in, and has short, round skirts.

Abetta makes a good-looking one, but I've heard that the seat of their endurance saddle is really hard!

[birdsong]

If your horse has high withers you might need a breastcollar also. For casual riding you don't use the rear cinch. Its more for roping and such I believe. I've never used one.

[SarahR]

If you are accustomed to English why not try an Aussie? They are also lighweight, and very secure. DownUnder usually has some good sales: www.downunderweb.com

I ride Western, and I always use the rear girth, and I make sure it's snug. If your saddle is rigged for front and rear cinches, you might want to do that. It will keept the back of the saddle from moving and 'pivoting' on the front of the saddle where the front girth is. If you use a rear cinch and don't snug it there is no point in having it at all. I always use a breast collar, too. But, my horse is round and needs all this, plus a crupper :)

[pines4equines]

I'm not sure if it's COrdova or Cordura, I think it's the Cordura and you say the Big Horn is the best. I'll have to check what brand this is.

The seat is very soft and the tack store owner said I might feel a bit uncomfortable at first because there is so much padding. I might feel pushed up and out a bit. But you know, I'm sure I can "sink" in to a little extra padding. After a 2 hour ride in my English saddle, I was pretty butt sore. And in the last year prior to breaking my ankle, I have been riding bareback as the English saddle just wasn't fitting my horse. Man, talk about butt sore after 2 hours. I think I'm going to like this softer seat kind of riding!

[gabz]

A breast collar is a safety item. In the event the saddle starts to slip sideways, the breast collar will prevent it from rolling UNDER the horse.
I suggest a quality neoprene or soft leather one. The fluffy ones collect seeds and burrs and whatnot along a trail. The nylon web ones get quite sweaty and can be hard to clean.

Please invest in a breast collar. : ) :)

Rear cinch probably isn't necessary for what you are doing. Unless you are very familiar with using them, I say don't. I've seen some folks that were unfamiliar with them undo the front girth before the rear girth only to have a wild horse on their hands, or the rear girth is not adjusted properly ... too long and it's a potential for a hind foot getting caught in any precarious situation; too short, and you've got the potential bucking strap or - a horse that THINKS it can't breathe and flops down on the ground for no reason.

[JHUshoer20]

Generally a breast collar is needed if you are on the trails, going up and down hills to stabilize the saddle. You only need the front cinch, the rear cinch is used when roping, so when you dally the rope around the horn, with a cow at the other end of the rope, it doesn't pull your saddle up! I like to use my rear cinch to keep my saddle steady, but it is not necessary! My gaited horse has alot of 'swing' in his rear, and the rear cinch keeps it steady.

A breast collar is a safety item. In the event the saddle starts to slip sideways, the breast collar will prevent it from rolling UNDER the horse.
I suggest a quality neoprene or soft leather one. The fluffy ones collect seeds and burrs and whatnot along a trail. The nylon web ones get quite sweaty and can be hard to clean.

Please invest in a breast collar. : ) :)

Rear cinch probably isn't necessary for what you are doing. Unless you are very familiar with using them, I say don't. I've seen some folks that were unfamiliar with them undo the front girth before the rear girth only to have a wild horse on their hands, or the rear girth is not adjusted properly ... too long and it's a potential for a hind foot getting caught in any precarious situation; too short, and you've got the potential bucking strap or - a horse that THINKS it can't breathe and flops down on the ground for no reason.
All very true,
The flank strap if used must not be loose. Forget what you see in the show ring. What WP people do is often wrong. Snug it up just enough to keep him from hanging a foot in there if he kicks at a fly. If roping it needs to be tighter but it sounds as if you're not intending to do any of that so just touching the belly not tight. Also use the keeper to attech it to the front girth. DON"T let it slide back too far!

Practical use for it besides roping is to minimize side to side sway when you ride down a hill. This can sore up a horses back. The flank strap prevents this so it is NOT as many believe just a useless decoration.
George

[SarahR]

Here's a simple test to see if your saddle needs the rear girth (assuming it is double rigged). Saddle your horse with only a front cinch. Round pen or lounge him. Does the saddle pop up in back and flop around? If yes, your saddle/horse needs that back cinch. If you are only going slow and not for very long you probably could get away with not using one, but for the sake of your horse (if your saddle flops around, see above) a properly used rear girth is wonderful. Even with the weight of your body in the saddle it will still move around a LOT (I've seen miles and miles of this while riding behind other people). It should be snug, some people say as snug as your front girth but I don't do it that tight.

Can anyone say why Western saddles tend to flop so much? Is it the length and overall size of them compared to English? I don't ride English....are they more of a centered girthing system that doesn't tend to cinch the front down as much as a Western saddle?

[Overo Kid]

I think that western saddles do cinch up further in front, and the bars have a different shape, of course. The original reason for rear cinches, I think, was working cows and taking a dally around the horn.

[IronStirrups]

I would recommend a breastcollar, but get one that is at least two inches wide. If your saddle does slip, a wider breastcollar will prevent it from turning into a tightrope around your horse's chest, cutting off circulation, and chafing his skin. In my experience the neoprene ones seem to trap heat; leather is probably the best choice. Leather is also forgiving and lasts a lot longer than neoprene.

Make sure that your girth has attachment rings for the breastcollar, and check to see if your saddle has small D rings on both sides that are higher than the girth attachment (very similar to the small D rings on English saddles). Attach the breastcollar to the higher rings to prevent it from slipping down.

If you are sticking to light trail riding, a rear cinch is not needed. However if you decide to do a lot of sharp turns, stops, and fast riding with your horse, consider adding the rear cinch. Make sure your horse cannot get a hoof caught in the rear cinch.

Take care,

Patricia

[Maude]

I always use a rear cinch, snugged, when I ride my dutch warmblood mare in her western saddle. When her back is loose, she uses it like a trampoline and the back of the saddle bounces all over the place. The rigging (front cinch) is in 3/4 position and really should be in 7/8 for her conformation as she has a more forward girth area. If I snug the front cinch too much, it pulls the saddle too far forward on her shoulders. By using the rear cinch, I do not have to tighten the front one too much and her belly/rear cinch keep the saddle in place and also keeps it from bouncing. I have a Reinsman All Around. It is leather and flares at the shoulders. Seat is padded and very comfy. Reinsman sets the fenders (stirrups) back an inch so your legs are under you and not kicked out in front so you ride over your leg, not behind it. As a dressage rider, I appreciate this.

I looked at quite a few saddles, synthetics and leather, and there was not room for my mare's shoulders to move freely in any but the one I have. I think I paid $1300.00 for the saddle and another $150.00 for the custom tooled cinch with hoof pick pouch to match. Well worth it. I use a Professional's Choice Ortho Sport Air Ride pad under it. The hollows behind my mares shoulders have filled in a bit, so I need to get the Air Ride without the extra padding in the shoulder hollows. The horse's comfort should come first, then be sure you are comfortable. Love my western saddle. My dressage saddle is a Schleese Wave and I am equally comfy in both. Good luck! You may never go back to english once you/ve gone "cowgirl"!

[GallopingGrape]

Yes, they have saddles with "center-fire" rigging, cinches from front and rear in kind of a "V" shape and further back from the girth pocket. I agree with everyone else above, snug up that rear cinch to keep your saddle from "flopping" or "swinging" back and forth, and losen the front girth a bit. I ride in a Dakota Walker saddle with TONS of flare (lots of shoulder room), and a nice rounded skirt. It was custom made by Dakota for around $900. The tree is a "walker tree" which only means that it has a nice roomy tree, front flared bars and a slight "rock" in the bars so the saddle won't bridge. It is the most comfortable saddle I own. It also tends to fit a wider variety of horses. I own a saddle shop and it took me two years (and dozens and dozens) of saddles (and private saddle makers) to finally find one to fit my horse - Dakota rocks! Enjoy riding in your western saddle, you won't go back to english!!

[pines4equines]

Thank you everyone. I feel armed and ready for the saddle fit with the tack store.

[Wellspotted]

I think it's great that you're going to have your saddle fitted. Their trees are so different from English saddle trees that I would think fitting them would be a whole different issue.

As to western saddles flopping around, I've never seen that. Could it be that the ones that do haven't been properly fitted to the horse?

In my experience, a lot of people who ride western don't really know how to ride at all and don't know about having a saddle fitted. Not to say that that's true of all, or most, western riders, just a lot of the ones in my experience (and this is not the west, so there is no history of people working in western saddles, just going for rides in them and buying them because they want something to grab hold of with their hands). They buy what "looks good" to them, or makes them feel secure, or what they can afford, not what is made for the horse. KNOWLEDGEABLE WESTERN RIDERS, DON'T FLAME ME. I DON'T MEAN YOU!

I would think that a saddle with rigging for two cinches would be meant to be used with both cinches. Some of these have the front cinch so far forward that the flank cinch might balance the load/hold. I would also think that a horse not trained to go western would have a major problem with the flank cinch.

[GallopingGrape]

Definitely have your local tack shop assist you with fitting. We won't even take a customers money until we are sure that the saddle fits their horse with the 3 day saddle trial. Fit the horse first, then the rider. I've had folks come in wanting to buy a western saddle, for a horse "that will arrive next week".... Grrr.... :no: I lose money, but I certainly will not sell them a saddle.... Until they purchase the horse, that is. :D

[SarahR]

As to western saddles flopping around, I've never seen that. Could it be that the ones that do haven't been properly fitted to the horse?

I would think that a saddle with rigging for two cinches would be meant to be used with both cinches. Some of these have the front cinch so far forward that the flank cinch might balance the load/hold. I would also think that a horse not trained to go western would have a major problem with the flank cinch.

I think it's what you said, that Western saddles (double rigged ones) put so much pull towards the front of the saddle, and without the rear girth to balance it out they will flop around. I see it all the time with loose rear girths. My personal saddle will flop, and it was custom made, from a custom tree, to fit my horse.

The rear cinch is held to the front cinch with a strap, so it cannot slide back like a rodeo bucking strap. You'd want to saddle the horse with the double rigging and round pen or loung it to let the horse get the feel of it before riding (that goes without saying really).

[katarine]

Western saddles offer many ways to hang that front cinch. They can have 'full rigging' which puts the front cinch pulling right under the horn/pommel area...and you snug that down tight w/o a rear cinch and yes, it's going to flop on many (not all, gentle reader) horses. Western saddles can also have lots of other rigging options for the front cinch, too, from double D rings so you can spread the load (like billets can) to 3/4 to 7/8 to centerfire..the more the saddle maker migrated toward centerfire, the less likely it's going to flop.

IMO if a saddle's well made and has a rear girth option, you ought to use it, unless all you do is slow ring or slow pattern work. Rear girths should ALWAYS be tethered to the front one by a little strap about 4-6" long, depends on how you want it/horse likes it. It is zero huge deal to get a horse used to a rear cinch- you ALWAYS do up the front girth first, then the rear...you snug it fairly snug and scoot him around. It's snug- it's not flopping or loose and slapping- he'll be fine. As he airs out and it loosens, you'll adjust it and keep it snug.

I ride my QH in both girths everytime I ride him. The saddle is designed for me to use them, and I do.I love the effect a rear girth has...to my mind it's like running in slide-in tennis shoes w/o laces...and real running shoes. I like keeping that saddle close to his body.

[Diamond Jake]

I think it is interesting you are going to a western saddle after a broken ankle, and I will explain why:
My last western saddle had pretty stiff fenders. My right knee and ankle would always be sore, from the constant soft pressure of having to use that part of my leg to hold the stirrup out. Or, when those muscles tired, they would get sore from the fender and stirrup pulling my toe in towards the horse.

Yes, I could have worked on tying, oiling and turning my stirrups more, but I would recommend that if the western saddle you buy does not already have pre-turned stirrups, buy the attachments that allow your feet to swivel to their most comfortble position. I think your ankle will thank you for it!

I like my english saddle, for the leathers are easier on my legs for position, but as always, each has their preference!

[Wellspotted]

That's one of the things I love about my Big Horn synthetic saddle! Cordura fenders, which aren't stiff! They turn easily.

I used to ride in a synthetic King Series saddle. Its fenders were horribly stiff and, unlike leather ones, could not be oiled.

Even with my saddle's cordura fenders, I still store it with a walking stick through the stirrups to keep them turned to riding position.

[pines4equines]

Thanks again everyone. Diamond Jake: I am getting the little turny things for the stirrups. (Great seeing you last weekend!)

Also, Galloping Grape, I read about you not selling saddles to people who haven't gotten their horse yet. I applaud stores who really take care of their customers and their customers' horses, especially when you might loose a sale. You're really thinking about them and their horses. It's all in their best interests and you're saving them alot of heart ache in the long run that comes from an ill-fitting saddle.

And that is the difference between shopping local for a saddle and being surprised when you order off of ebay or a catalog.

The local store I'm using, Whinnies & Knickers in Newburgh, NY, has the same standards and is thinking of me and my well-fare and the horse's over her sale. I'm really touched that she is taking the time on her day off to come to my farm to fit my horse perfectly with gas prices as they are.

Please check out my web site and if there is anything we can help you with, please let me know: www.horsehollowpress.com

Best wishes and many sales! JUNE

[Wellspotted]

Why do they call the store Whinnies and Knickers? Do they sell knickers? I don't quite get what knickers have to do with whinnies. (Surely they don't sell whinnies! Neigh!)

[pines4equines]

You'd love Whinnies & Knickers...I think it's a pun on Nickering and the old fashined pants people wore...knickers...She does sell riding jeans...She's more of a western store.

[Wellspotted]

Well, I guess breeches do look kinda like knickers ... :)

[LuvMyperch]

I have to agree with Diamond Jake. When I read your post I wondered why you would be switching to western due to an ankle injury. Dont get me wrong, the preturned stirrups are wonderful but talking from experience with both a fractured ankle (and multiple other leg injuries) and riding both seats--it would be a rare western saddle that would leave your leg and ankle more free than english leathers. If you have an English saddle that you really like, I would recommend sticking with it and maybe using a pair of the wider stirrups, like the EZ rides, for more foot support. JMHO :)

[jerry]

Having severely damaged both lower legs at different times, my ankles are sensitive to anything over 1/2 hour in the saddle. I rarely ride a western, which I grew up with, for that reason. And I have the turnouts. They are a considerable help, however. I don't ride English, not my thing is all. I ride an Aussie. My legs demand it.

[pines4equines]

Thanks for all your responses. I'm getting western not so much for the ankle which is totally healed now but more for the security. I haven't ridden since April due to this injury and want something that is going to really make me stick to get my confidence back. (I have a youngish horse.)

I also feel like my response time has slowed. This really worries me the most not so much my ankle. I know this will pick up with more exercise and more riding but until then...

Whether a western saddles does or does not 1. make me stick, 2. help me feel more secure with regards to my slower response times, is not the situation BUT if I perceive it to make me stick better then so be it.

I had been thinking about changing to western anyway as all I do these days is trail ride and used to be pretty butt sore. In the past year prior to breaking the ankle, I was riding bareback but I have to say I am so looking forward to this cushy seat the tack store's saddle is going to provide me.

I guess I also want out of the English world too?!? Maybe that's part of it...Maybe that's most of it.

[Wellspotted]

One thing I DON'T like about western saddles is their reputation for helping a rider "stick." Sometimes it's a better idea to bail out at need. But as for making a rider feel more secure, they do that for me, and as I get older my response time gets slower. My body still remembers what to do, but various parts of it often hurt when called upon to react--and I don't want to get in a situation that calls for quick reactions and, when my body reacts, it suddenly has a twinge of pain that interferes with the reaction. My muscles and joints know what to do but if they hurt when doing it, they're gonna tense up and not be able to do it, or at least stay so tense that more situations could arise.
I want a saddle that feels more or less like a recliner--not so much to recline in, but to have the mechanics of the saddle take over some of the work that, in an English saddle, my joints and muscles, etc., have to do for themselves.
I also like the way the western fenders (the flexible cordura ones on my saddle) add to the feeling of secure support.
The other night I came across a spare pair of English stirrups given me by a friend a few years ago. I looked at them and suddenly realized I may never go back to riding in an English saddle again--by choice. My nice wide padded western stirrups are so much more comfortable, as are the western fenders, etc.
The only thing I don't like about western saddles is the horn!

[gabz]

The only thing I don't like about western saddles is the horn!

:winkgrin: That's why there are endurance saddles and aussies!!

So far as the "stick" goes... here's a few tidbits.
saddles with NO tooling are more slick that saddles with tooling.
western / endurance saddles can come with suede seat or a padded seat with stitching... (more grip)
Saddles with tooling may give more grip BUT they will also chaff your upper leg more.

While there are English saddles with deep seats, I believe it's the pommel area that provides as much security as anything. they are more likely to prevent a forward fall when a horse stops suddenly. It's also easier to grip the cantle of a western saddle when the terrain is dicey. Grabbing the cantle will help keep you over the horse FAR more than grabbing the horn.

[CatOnLap]

just a comment- I've ridden many many years and fallen off more times than I would like to recall. In all those falls there was only ONE where it was better to bail out than to have stayed on. I would have rode through all the rest if I could have. :lol
I like my western saddle for the security. I can relax more easily with a hand on the pommel of the western.

What worries me is people who treat their saddle horses like pack horses and can't be seen behind all the gear they tied on!

[LuvMyNSH]

Thanks for all your responses. I'm getting western not so much for the ankle which is totally healed now but more for the security. I haven't ridden since April due to this injury and want something that is going to really make me stick to get my confidence back. (I have a youngish horse.)


I can understand the security thing! I've just started taking the NSH out on the trails and while he's a very good 4yo - he's big, very athletic, and 2 years of showing halter didn't do much to calm him down. :lol: The 3' fences between the trail and street? We've gone over them sideways twice now. Logically I know I stick with him just as well in the dressage saddle as western, but I just feel better western.

If the western fenders do bother your ankles, it's fairly easy to take them off and put english leathers on. Looks silly, but I have leathers and the EZ ride stirrups on my cordura endurance saddle and it's really helped me ride longer without pain.

[pines4equines]

Re: Cat on Lap said: What worries me is people who treat their saddle horses like pack horses and can't be seen behind all the gear they tied on!

I was laughing so hard at this, my friend says those riders look like Gypsy caravans! Arh, arh!:lol:

I just need a place to put my lipstick...

[Wellspotted]

Well, and I have at times been glad to have my saddle's horn to hang water bottles on, and a halter, and a friend's lunge line ...
But definitely NOT the hem of my jacket when posting or dismounting! (At least so far I haven't joined the bra-hooked-on-horn club. :cool: )

[SarahR]

If you get a Western saddle and still don't feel secure, add bucking rolls. They help a LOT.

Sarah
www.fourcornerstrails.com

[Wellspotted]

What are bucking rolls?

[LuvMyNSH]

What are bucking rolls?

The rolls themselves...
http://buysaddles.com/catalog/Bucking_Rolls-62-1.html

On a saddle..
http://www.corrientesaddleco.com/Corriente%20Wade%20Saddle.htm

Another one..
http://www.flealess.org/sharpsaddlery/horse_saddles/wade_tree.html

They go on slick fork or A fork saddles to the side and slightly back of where the swells extend out to on a "regular" saddle...no real way to put them on an association style tree gracefully, which rules out most of the pleasure/trail/endurance saddles out there.

[Wellspotted]

Thanks!

They look kind of like poleys on an Australian saddle.

What's an association-style tree?

[LuvMyNSH]

Thanks!

What's an association-style tree?

The "regular" western tree with swells like this-
http://www.bufordsaddle.com/bighorn/saddles.htm

....as opposed to a slick fork or A frame saddle with very minimal/no swells...which is why bucking rolls are made for those saddles. ;)

Association is an older term, they may be using something else now. But it's what I'm used to calling them.

[SarahR]

I use mine on an association tree. They look fine and make me feel really secure. They might not be as graceful looking as when applied to a slickfork, but hey, to me they are fine and I like having them.

http://www.rosehorse.com/pics/newsaddle.jpg

[Wellspotted]

Thanks, LuvMyNSH. :)

[jeano]

:winkgrin: That's why there are endurance saddles and aussies!!

So far as the "stick" goes... here's a few tidbits.
saddles with NO tooling are more slick that saddles with tooling.
western / endurance saddles can come with suede seat or a padded seat with stitching... (more grip)
Saddles with tooling may give more grip BUT they will also chaff your upper leg more.

While there are English saddles with deep seats, I believe it's the pommel area that provides as much security as anything. they are more likely to prevent a forward fall when a horse stops suddenly. It's also easier to grip the cantle of a western saddle when the terrain is dicey. Grabbing the cantle will help keep you over the horse FAR more than grabbing the horn.

a few random thoughts to add to the above about stickiness-- and musing about other advantages of a western--if you're out riding trails as opposed to trying to look good in the show ring, there's no reason why you cant wear breeches to help you stick. I have found that my fluffy sheepskin "luxury" style seat cover is a mite stickier than cordura and absolutely helps with the jockeys jabbing the thighs.

I have so much crap on my saddle that I am guilty of the gypsy tag--horn bag, water bottles, cashel tush cush UNDER the fleece seat saver, you name it. Still, its nice to have that storage capacity.

Was out for a ride with a buddy yesterday and spotted puffballs right under buddy's horse's hoofs. I immediately bailed out and began harvesting, got a bunch of big ones. Now, I cant mount from the ground, so buddy was a little concerned, asking, "how are you going to get back on?" and I told her we'd burn that bridge when we came to it, these were PUFFBALLS and were going to be part of dinner for several days.

I took TP out of one horn bag and crammed it in next to one of the water bottles, took my rain poncho and stuffed it between seat and tush cush, loaded hornbag to capacity with puffballs, walked around with my gelding a couple hundred feet up a side trail where buddy spooted a little hump of dirt about a foot high and was able to remount.

Finished ride after two hours of smelling the shrooms wafting up from the horn bag. Made mental note to self, always pack a plastic grocery sack because you just never know....

[pines4equines]

Gypsy caravan and grocery store too!!!! You go girl!

[GallopingGrape]

Ok,.... so what are puffballs?:no:

[Wellspotted]

You travel like me, Jeano. :)

(I never knew you could eat those. We used to kick them in the yard to watch them puff! Now I know better.)

[gabz]

Puffballs = 'shrooms (mushrooms)

I used to take nearly empty LARGE horn bags to the apple orchard. While my horse munched apples from the lower tree branches, I was able to pick apples from "up high" ... LOL...

[Wellspotted]

We used to do that with pears.

[jeano]

Ok,.... so what are puffballs?:no:

Puffballs are the simplest to identify commonest edible mushroom. They are quite similar in taste to the white button mushroom in the grocery store. I use them in soups, stirfries, anything you would put cooked mushrooms in (my Big Book of Fungi and How to Not Die Eating Them recommends wild fungi always be cooked.)

To differentiate between edible puffballs and everything else--mushroom can be white or tannish to brownish. Will have no signs of a stem or cap. The "root" end might be smaller in diameter but will not be a separate stem. Size ranges from your pinkie nail to as big as your head. Firmer is better (yark yark) than softer.

Pick your puffball, cut off sandy or buggy bits. slice it in half vertically and look at the cut surfaces. There should be NO visible internal structures, just solid whiteness. If that's what you see you are in business. Slice 'er up and fry in butter and the taste will make you slap yo' momma.

The mycelium or underground, more or less permanent part of the puffball could be acres in extent. The fruiting bodies, or puffballs, tend to pop out all over the extent of the mycelium a day or so after a rain. So you tend to get a harvest right now and in abundance, then maybe nothing for a long time. If the mushroom has matured to the point of getting yellow and soft inside it's too far gone to eat. Leave a few to turn purply black and give 'em a good kick to spread the spores.

This concludes the puffball lecture. We now return to our regularly schedule horsie programming.

[SarahR]

I have so much crap on my saddle that I am guilty of the gypsy tag--horn bag, water bottles, cashel tush cush UNDER the fleece seat saver, you name it. Still, its nice to have that storage capacity.

Ha ha! That sounds just like me, down to the fleece seat saver over the, in my case, Supracore seat saver.

Was out for a ride with a buddy yesterday and spotted puffballs right under buddy's horse's hoofs. I immediately bailed out and began harvesting, got a bunch of big ones.

Finished ride after two hours of smelling the shrooms wafting up from the horn bag. Made mental note to self, always pack a plastic grocery sack because you just never know....

How do you cook them? A friend of mine grabbed some ona ride once, and I thought they tasted like mushroom/tofu/rubberbands. Maybe they were too old? Oh, wait, now I see your above comments. Maybe I'll give them another try.

A few years ago we had a banner year form mushrooms. There were puffballs as big as basketballs. In fact there were two of them up on a mountainside in my neighborhood that you could plainly see from the road, for several weeks. I don't even want to guess how big those ones were.

Sarah in Durango
www.fourcornerstrails.com

[Wellspotted]

Leave a few to turn purply black and give 'em a good kick to spread the spores.

So THAT's what I was doing all those years ago in my back yard! Spreading spores! :D

(If I'd slapped my mama I wouldn't have been able to sit down at the table to eat mushrooms for a month!) ;)

[TikiSoo]

Hi, I'd like to take this thread back to the original topic since I have a few western saddle questions.
I have been riding in a new (used) saddle and just love it. It has a suede seat that concerns me, though. Don't these eventually wear smooth like my English knee rolls? Should I be doing anything to the seat to keep it in good fuzzy condition?

Also, I'm not really comfortable with the thick grippy leather stirrups. It doesn't help I ride in thick soled Merrel hiking boots in winter. Is there a lighter stirrup alternative? Or should I just break down and buy a pair of Ariat riding/paddock boots?

[SarahR]

A local saddlemaker told us to use a wire brush to keep the suede new and grippy.

[craz4crtrs]

Hi, I'd like to take this thread back to the original topic since I have a few western saddle questions.
I have been riding in a new (used) saddle and just love it. It has a suede seat that concerns me, though. Don't these eventually wear smooth like my English knee rolls? Should I be doing anything to the seat to keep it in good fuzzy condition?

Also, I'm not really comfortable with the thick grippy leather stirrups. It doesn't help I ride in thick soled Merrel hiking boots in winter. Is there a lighter stirrup alternative? Or should I just break down and buy a pair of Ariat riding/paddock boots?

You have your answer on the suede seat, so I'll answer the stirrup questions. :D

There are all kinds of stirrups available. Endurance type, bigger roper stirrups...I prefer aluminum stirrups with a leather foot pad. They come in narrow 1 inch or wide 3-4 inch. I don't like visalia stirrups that are narrower at the neck, makes my foot feel too tight. I wear heavier boots in the winter, too and I have one saddle with roper stirrups and one with the 2" aluminum.

I hate oxbow stirrups, so uncomfortable for regular riding, unless you are cutting cattle. :lol:

http://www.nrsworld.com/istarimages/p/t/pt-SA200!SAWAL.jpg (http://www.nrsworld.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=SA200!SAWAL)
http://www.nrsworld.com/istarimages/p/t/pt-SA300!SAWAL.jpg (http://www.nrsworld.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=SA300!SAWAL)
http://www.nrsworld.com/istarimages/p/t/pt-57-1050!JTI.jpg (http://www.nrsworld.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=57-1050!JTI)
http://www.nrsworld.com/istarimages/p/t/pt-210-306!COURT.jpg (http://www.nrsworld.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=210-306!COURT)

[gabz]

If you need to ride in insulated boots in the winter - you should be able to find some oversised "plastic" stirrups - no leather pad.
Keep the leather padded ones for summer riding.

Be careful using hiking boots for riding though - their sole is too grippy.