Saddle moving forward problem

[baymareseven]

Has anyone used the stabilizer Eco Gold saddle pad to keep their saddle from migrating forward?

[audgesmom]

try an ultra thin line contour pad

[merrygoround]

Better yet have your saddle fit checked by a saddler.

[baymareseven]

Thanks. I am working with a saddle fitter. The saddle is new. She has made some adjustments and recognizes that the saddle slips forward but believes that it is not interfering. She recommended the Eco Gold pad.

[Ambrey]

I have been told that point billets and a contour girth are helpful, since my guy has no withers and a forward girth slot. So I now have a Schleese with point billets and a super special Schleese girth and hopefully it will help ;)

Haven't tried the pad.

[J-Lu]

I have a saddle with point billets also, and I use a cut-down Nunn Finer pad between the saddle and the pad for my pear-shaped wonder. It's helped alot. I've never heard of the Eco Gold pad.

J.

[baymareseven]

My mare has low withers and very "deep" shoulders. It has been difficult fitting her for the saddle. I do have the point billets on my County Fusion. Now I am looking to the saddle pad for help with this problem.
Thanks

[audgesmom]

here is my experience with the Ultra thin line contour pad that I suggested last night.

I have a 14 hand Haffie who takes a 35cm Duett or similar. Right now we are in the new Warendorf monoflap W completely re flocked in nice soft long fiber virgin wool (it comes synthetic wool of the nicest quality but I am a purest!) He has no wither, an incrediby short back and because of his barrel shape, no matter what girth/pad/point billet combo, once we get to canter work, our saddle is up his neck. I have my wool flocked saddle adjusted 3-4 times a year by a Master Saddler who doe NOT rep a line. He works independently so is not determined to sell me one of his 7000 custom saddles to fix this problem. With his help flocking, watching us go, adjusting again and trial and error, we have made due. I have used Mattes,Fleeceworks,Tad, Nunn Finer....all of these options and combinations have worked 'sort of' but I was still dismounting after our 3rd or 4th canter circle to adjust my saddle. I finially hit on a combo that worked....crupper, nunn finer, neoprene girth, crossed billets, thin white schooling square. I have learned who to sit/create/not create canter so as to not encourage the saddle to move. Haffies do not canter naturally by the way.

There was a tread on this forum back in December extolling the virtues of the thin line contour pad. I read and re read. I waited. I read. I took the plunge early feb. I figured if anything it would be more 'market research' When my pad arrived, I looked briefly at the info included in the cute little bag, plopped it on fat pony, and rode. Next day I removed the Nunn Finer from our ensemble. Day after that I removed the crupper, which had been part of our outfit for 4 years. Several rides later I dispensed with the neoprene girth and was able to use my really pretty leather girth again. MY SADDLE STAYED PUT! (Anky 17.5 wide) In canter, I was able to just ride, not worry/stiffen/fuss so as not to move my saddle. My pony just cantered, did not bolt or resist. My saddle didn't move. The thin line diminished bounce at trot. His trot seems more flow-ey and open. (I know, he's a haffie, how 'open' can it be?)

I THEN DECIDED TO SADDLE SHOP!!!!! I know, why not leave well enough alone! This is a difficult pony to fit, a difficult economy etc...but I have access to lots of saddles to ride right now, so, again in the name of market research, I test rode everything I could get my hands on in a w or xw fit. I rode the Innova by Bates, in both the regular and big blocks, with and without the thin line. Saddle stayed put. I was able to evaluate saddle for me. Of course, not much fits a wide haffie under 4000 dollars, so my 'research' did not involve all that many saddles after all.....I then rode the Warendorf Mono and LOVED IT...with the thin line it stayed put and my pony was free and forward, not running away from a saddle chasing him up his neck. I rode the Steffan Peters but it was not wide enough...we walked but did not trot/canter. Yummy saddle, just not wide enough off the rack for my boy. I rode the Warendorf SP, which I understand Steffan consulted on years ago.....WOW! What a nice saddle for the price...the leather is soft and supple, the channel is WIDE ...a good 4 inches between the panels.....good fit on my wide boy, not so good for my short bod...could not get my lower leg around him....so I went back to the mono, which felt wonderful, for a couple lessons to make my decision. In this saddle, which does not slide with the Thin Line pad, I feel effective and able to communicate. My leg falls right beneath me. The twist is correct for my body. BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY IT FITS MY HAFFIE! The angles are correct (even without reflocking), the panels make good contact, the channel is wide. Now that is is re-flocked and fit to him, it is even better! The Thin Line pad has been amazing. I am trilled that something so small has made such a difference and helped me find a saddle that is perfect for BOTH of us not just him!!!

Last week, I was able to learn more about the thin line products. They have so many great options and solutions for saddle fit issues, horse and rider comfort issues etc. The research that has gone into these products is thorough and correct. The thin line material itself is amazing. The company is deeply committed to horse health. I am really impressed with what the Thin Line pad has done for my pony and my riding. I have ordered a girth and boots for my daughter's boy. I would recommend this pad to anyone having saddle fit issues..heck to any one riding. Try it...its completely guarenteed.....

[cuatx55]

Check the saddle ft again...My mare is terrible with this and I figured it was not fixable...Be careful of hitting the shoulders, in my old saddle my mare developed sore shoulders as the knee rolls were starting to press into the shoulder blade as the saddle slid forward. Also the girth area became sore as the muscle tension spread.

I use the thin line pad on my new saddle which has more side-to-side support and is much wider then the other one. I had to have two saddle fitters look at it to get the perfect fit (my trainer was one of them).

Note the old saddle "fit" and was "ok" but that's still not enough.

[baymareseven]

That is exactly what I am concerned about. Yesterday just for drill, I got off three times and placed the saddle back. While it was in the proper position I felt that my leg fell in a better place. I could be wrong, but when the saddle migrates forward, I could swear that my inside let also gets too forward to and hence the "mare is behind my leg." I have had 4 saddles in 5 years with my mare. Several saddle-fitters along with these saddles. Each time I think that I have finally found the right combo on her. I am getting close with the County Fusion and County Logic girth but not there yet! I am going to look into this thin line contour that all have been recommending. Anything special that I should look for when ordering this pad? Also, any suggestions as to where to order online would be helpful.
Thanks

[Ambrey]

Check the saddle ft again...My mare is terrible with this and I figured it was not fixable...Be careful of hitting the shoulders, in my old saddle my mare developed sore shoulders as the knee rolls were starting to press into the shoulder blade as the saddle slid forward. Also the girth area became sore as the muscle tension spread.


Yep. This is another reason I bought the Schleese, it has short, flexible points so it doesn't interfere with my guy's huge shoulder.

Having an apple dumpling is fun, but it has its problems! My horse goes in a 39 cm Duett, but the Duett just didn't "do it" for him without the point billets and reflocking. I bit the bullet and got the Schleese (got a great deal on it, though) and had it adjusted and fit to him.

[cuatx55]

you can buy thinline everywhere. You only get to chose black or white, they can be cut to size. Just make sure there is another pad under and don't put it next to the skin. Maybe some do this but my saddle fitter doesn't reccomend that.

[goeslikestink]

if it slips forwards it dont fit the horse in question it shouldnt happen same as they shouldnt tilt find a mastercraftmen saddle fitter

for an exercise as this saddle tips forwards -- just ask your saddler how many dorsal fins should there be from the back of the saddle it should be 7 if it slides forwards then there gonna be 8 or more which tell me saddles to big and doesnt fit

[audgesmom]

update.....

I rode round pony today in newly flocked saddle with a tad coffin white square (no billet or grith loops) and the famous thin line. Pony was funky/listless (day after the day after first round of spring shots) so cut ride short. Did wtc though, SADDLE DID NOT MOVE!!!!!!!!

[Kit]

Another trick to stop your saddle moving forward is to cross the billets over each other and then girth up.

[baymareseven]

I noticed that there are half pads and full pads. Can anyone make a recommendation as to which to buy?
Thanks

[ESG]

IF this is a custom saddle, it should fit your horse without sliding forward. If it doesn't, the saddler should either fix this one, or make you a new one. Correctly fitted custom saddles don't have to be shimmed up with any sort of pad.

[SerenaGinger]

Try this:

Barnsby Grip Pad (http://www.barnsby.com/accessories/barnsby_dressage_grip_pad/?RangeID=)

[WhatzUp]

I noticed that there are half pads and full pads. Can anyone make a recommendation as to which to buy?
Thanks

Hi,

Honestly, I recommend you do not buy a thinline, or
any other pad at all to prevent the saddle from slipping.

After all, the purpose of the saddle pad is to keep the
saddle clean, that is all.

I agree with everyone else who posted that a saddle,
whether custom or not, should not be slipping. This
indicates a few things that might be wrong, including
bridging.

The sweet spot is the sweet spot - and no pad can
correct that. The saddle will sit there in the end.

Have you tried any saddles that are significantly built up
flocking-wise (yet evenly sloping down through the gullet)
in the front to compensate for the " low withers and very
deep shoulders" on your mare ?

I surmise you will need to go the semi custom route here,
if not even full custom. Not necessarily brand new, but
even finding a Custom that is "close" and working with
that particular saddle maker to create a solution.

Yours in sport,

Lynn

[neVar]

Ok saddle fitter chimming in here.


SOME SADDLES SOME HORSES wil slip no matter what. Sometimes conformation of the horse just does not make it possible for a saddle to stay put- no matter HOW well the saddle fits.

THIS is where non slip pads come into play. And they DO work- but not all pads work for all reasons. EX_ thinline (which i loff and use daily ) works for most- but some might need to go to a barnsby. If it is a very shove it forward sort of horse you need something that grips against horse and then something that grips the saddle pad to saddle. . .


but above all- SADDLE MUST FIT FIRST

[swgarasu]

This is perhaps a silly question- but does the thinline go between the regular pad and the saddle, or between the regular saddle pad and the horse?
I would think the horse's back, then regular pad, then thinline, then saddle- but what keeps the regular pad from moving on the horse's back?

[cuatx55]

see previous replies, they go between the pad and the saddle, you can put them next to the horse but it wasn't recommended that I do that. Having it next to the saddle provides a lot more "stick" to hold the saddle in place, though with my new one it fits much better and isn't an issue.

[neVar]

between pad and saddle is standard- ut against the horse can provide more grip for a slipping saddle and is OK to use that way as it's an 'open cell' product that both moisture and air moves through.


I use mine above pad under saddle.

[laurence cohen]

Has anyone used the stabilizer Eco Gold saddle pad to keep their saddle from migrating forward?
check your billet system maybe needs to be relocated further forward,or saddle tree to narrow

[Sobriska]

Thanks for all the replies for my benefit too. A couple new ideas.
And, sadly, Nevar is right. I went the complete custom route only to have the same problem with the $4,000 saddle as I did with my $600 one. :(
Now thinking it would have worked out cheaper to get a horse to fit the saddles I have.

[ESG]

The only thing that has worked for me, is getting a saddle with a point billet. My hard-to-fit gelding was driving me nuts, because every saddle I tried slid forward on him. Then, got one with the point billet and volia` - no more problems. The point billet anchors the saddle so it won't move.

I've heard some opine that crossing the billets will achieve the same result. I'm here to tell you, it doesn't work.

Good luck. I'm sorry you're having so much trouble. :no:

[Lincoln]

I had really good luck fitting a horse with terminal forward slipping issues with a really good dressage saddle fitting and a county logic girth (as others have suggested.) I really think the County Logic made a huge difference.
Currently I have an event horse with a very deep shoulder for whom the saddle slips BACK and am using one of those ecogold pads or a nunn finer and both seem to be working fine.