PrintA day spent following the hounds and wild stag—at a trot—with one of France’s most historic hunts turns into the experience of a lifetime.
He is tall, elegant and French. His hair is the color of dark chocolate, and his large eyes are framed with a thick set of luscious lashes. He’s well groomed and wears the finest leather accessories that money can buy. He’s standing with his friends by the side of a white horse lorry, and I detect a hint of restlessness in his charming demeanor as I walk toward him.
His name is Gigolo. He’s a French Trotting Horse of 15.3 hands, and he’s to be my trusted steed for the day’s excursion, the fabled French stag hunt known as La Chasse à Courre.
My host for this expedition is Nick de Toldi of Gourmetfly.com. Nick has arranged for me to join the equipage named Rallye de la Brie in the National forest of Orléans, which is the largest forest in France, to take part in my first ever red stag hunt on horseback.
This style of hunting is carried out between the months of September and March each year, and it revolves around a pack of about 70 hounds. They’re worked and controlled by a hunt master (maitre d’ equipage) and his three hunt staff (piqueux). Each carries a large horn, known as la trompe, and a dagger with a blade that reaches 15" to 20" in length.
On the morning of the hunt, a group of huntsmen (valets de limiers) patrol the forest on foot with sleuths on the leash in search of suitable stags to stalk. Their sightings are then reported to the master, who decides which stag to let the hounds chase. Once this pack of hounds scent the chosen stag, they relentlessly pursue the deer until its capture. Then the stag is quickly dispatched with either a dagger or a firearm.
Throughout the day, a variety of musical notes are played on the horns. This allows the other hunt members to know where the stag is and what the hounds are doing—only the hunt master and his staff come into direct contact with the stag in the forest.
Around 20 liveried hunters ride out with the hunt for pleasure and carry a mini horn called la pibole. Their aim is to anticipate what direction the stag and hounds are taking and try to keep up with the proceedings. If they spot the stag or witness any lost hounds, they will blow on their horns to keep everyone informed.
When the riders stop to await the hunt master’s call, their horses’ heads are always facing the direction of the woodland where the stag and hounds were last heard.
This is hunting etiquette and something that I will have to remember today when I become part of this ancient, royal tradition.
Getting A Taste
My day starts at 5:00 a.m., when my alarm clock begins its relentless ring.
Nick and I drive the 80 miles from his house in Paris to a village near Orléans, in central France, where we are to meet the hunt members.
It’s 8:30 as we arrive at the town’s quiet square, with its beautiful Notre Dame church rising high into the sky ahead of us. The shops are shut, and the streets are empty. The only light visible is from the cafe where we are to have breakfast.
I open the door and am greeted by the smell of strong black coffee, fresh pastries and cigarette smoke. Hunt Master Frederic Poisson and his wife Catherine sit at a table with their extended family and friends.
